Time to complete the Bucket List

We ventured out to the blustery ship’s decks this morning and found, unusually, we were not alone. Three medium-sized fishing boats were not far in the distance. They were looking for what the guests on board our ship were looking for… Narwhals. Unfortunately we had rather different reasons. 

Guests aboard wanted to seek out these beautiful creatures with their unique tusks, rather like unicorns of the sea. The fishing people on the boats wanted to seek them out for lunch, and their tusks for decoration. It is not what we wanted to see but we have to appreciate we are of different cultures and have different needs. Perhaps it is something we should not delve too deeply into, especially when later we will be tucking into our chicken or beef dinner with shrimp starter.

Instead we turn to those mariners’ community living in Arctic Bay where we are moored. It is the third most northerly community in Canada, a hamlet housing less than 1,000 people. It’s location is nestled into surrounding peaks and has the Inuit name of Ikpiarjuk, meaning ‘pocket’.

Nomadic Inuit inhabited the area over thousands of years, but in 1959 a schoolhouse was built which led to the slow move to Inuit permanent residence. The oldest building is a joint Canada-US weather station erected in 1941.

Our trip to the town was via the Zodiac and a rather wavy, splashy, sea. At the shoreline was a welcoming committee… dozens of children, mainly boys, who excitedly showed us part of a daily catch – two seals. I too wanted to see seals, but not in this fashion. And we never did see any Narwhals.

The children were clearly delighted to see us and rushed over to each Zodiac as it came up to the shoreline. The area does not have too many visitors, let alone a small cruise ship. The roads here are tarmac-free which results in the throwing up a lot of dust as vehicles pass by, much of which had landed on the children’s hands, legs and faces.

The town’s adults too were excited to see us. Just as in Pond Inlet they wanted to entertain us with singing and drum playing, and to feed us with bannock – a flat unsweetened cake tasting rather like doughnut without the sugar coating.

We were given a front row seat which was great for photographers and we settled down to hear some more throat singers and drum players, but also two guys playing guitar and singing. They had performed for many years in different parts of the world and were hoping their music would get onto Spotify. Inuit towns may be remote but as one of the throat singers pointed out, “We got internet connection a few years ago and now everyone has a mobile phone!”

After the performance we talked with the entertainers and the young throat singers spoke of their traditional outfits, the amauti (parka). Those of the two ladies were made of Caribou and Seal skin. The different coloured skins are cut in shapes and mixed to produce a pattern. The makers, in this case their grandmothers, do not use scissors, but instead a ulu, which is a multi-purpose crescent-shaped blade. One young lady showed me the inside of her parka which comprised minute stitching of multiple pieces of skin. 

We were then off to our ship again, but the day did not end there. In the evening, the Expedition Leader had arranged to meet and bring on board a real life modern day explorer. This was Borge Ousland, a Norwegian Polar explorer who had carried out incredible feats including being the first person to cross Antarctica solo, covering 1,864 miles, and using kite and skis for assistance.

Borge had started his career as a Norwegian Navy Special Forces Officer and later as a deep sea diver for the oil industry. He clearly likes adventure. In 1990 he, along with fellow explorer Erling Kagge, were the first to reach the North Pole unsupported. The 800km (500 miles) trip took 58 days. In 1994 he made the first solo unsupported trek to the North Pole from Arctic Cape, Russia. 

As if that didn’t already fulfil his dreams, he holds the record for the fastest unsupported journey to the South Pole taking 34 days; and in 2006 he, together with fellow explorer Mike Horn, took two months to travel to the North Pole in Arctic darkness.

He has many other trips and successes to his name, and during his talk told us how he was planning to ski across the world’s 20 largest ice caps with French explorer Vincent Colliard, during which time they will be looking at various aspects of science, climate change and the importance of ice to the planet.

Asked what drives him, Borge replied: “I grew up in the 1970s and 1980s. Everything was possible. I had two hobbies – nature and diving.”

Regarding the trips to the Poles he said: “They are completely different. The Antarctic is a mental challenge because of the landscape. It all looks the same from when you wake up to when you go to sleep. In the North Pole region there are boulders to look at.”

And Polar Bears. He explained that while he can keep an eye on the bears during the day, that is not so at night. One morning he woke to three Polar Bears around the tent. Quite a wake-up call, and in smelling distance. It is said that bears can smell prey from 1 km away.

He said the solo expeditions especially taught him a lot. “I grew and learnt, and was inspired to be a full-time Polar explorer. It is great to do something that has not been done before.”

Needless to say, we won’t be joining him on the next trip. A step too far, I think.

Copyright: Words and photos Sue Barnard 2022

Our next high point was a Zodiac ride to Low Point, on Baffin Island, a little further north than Pond Inlet our destination yesterday. To ease congestion on the various land and sea trips we had been divided into four groups to leave the vessel, which were all named after ships. 

Our group was the MS Fram, a ship launched in 1892 and used in Arctic and Antarctic expeditions, one familiar name being Roald Amundsen. Other groups were the Gjoa (1872), the first vessel to pass through the Northwest Passage taking three years to complete; the St Roch (1928), a Royal Canadian Mounted Police schooner, the first ship to fully circumnavigate North America and the second to successfully pass through the Northwest Passage; and Maud, named after Queen Maud of Norway launched in 1916 and built for Roald Amundsen’s second exploration of the Arctic.

On this occasion, however, to cater for passengers’ stamina, aching muscles or preferences, we were divided into the ‘chargers’, those delighting in running up the peaks; the ‘medium fasts’, the not so energetic, but liking a fast walk; the ‘medium slows’ (just my cup of tea, although no tea provided on this occasion); and the ‘contemplatives’, a polite term for the plodders.

Being in the ‘medium slows’ I did at least get the chance to take some photos of what I was trying not to step on – the plants and attractive-looking rocks and stones. But we were also looking at history.

Our other historian and Polar expert was Scottish-born Laurie Dexter who served for 13 years as an Anglican Minister in the Diocese of the Arctic, the most northerly parish in the world. During this time he learned to speak fluently the Inuit language (Inuktitut) – a most complex of languages. He has since travelled the Polar regions hundreds of times and taken part in extreme sports.

Our two hour hike, which was a little rocky under foot, but a gentler climb compared with our previous exhausting experiences, enabled us to appreciate just what we were walking around. Laurie pointed out that the rings of rocks around us did not arrive naturally, but were the bases of cool places (literally) for storing the meat hunted by the Dorset or Thule people.

As he took us higher up the landscape we staggered over loose and shifting rocks to view inside mounds of stones, pyramidal in shape, about four feet high with an open top. These were fox traps, or rock cairns, in which pieces of meat would be placed as bait. When the fox came sniffing it would enter the cairn at the top opening, get its prey, but would not be able to get out again. Ingenious, but not for the squeamish.

There were several more rock outlines nearer to the shore indicating that these could have been houses or other buildings. 

As if this wasn’t enough excitement, in the afternoon we went looking for icebergs passing the tiny Adam’s Island, off Baffin and Bylot Islands. On the map above, this is located by a tiny dot in the channel to the left of Cape Hay, near point 10.

Adam’s Island lies in the Lancaster Sound where Franklin’s ships would have passed on their way through the Northwest Passage. The island is uninhabited, but small rock cairns on the top of the rocks showed that human life had clambered onto it. From this point we sailed around some beautiful and huge icebergs.

When we returned to the ship we had the greatest sighting of Orcas (Killer Whales) which swam alongside us for at least an hour and comprised an estimated 40-50 Orcas. 

But our day was not to end there. We had asked if we could meet with the Captain during our voyage. Due to Covid, passengers were not allowed on the Bridge so we were unable to visit him in situ. The Expedition Team did not disappoint, however. The Captain came to see us. 

Ah, of course this was my opportunity to ask… is it a ship or a boat? “IT’S A SHIP!”, he bellowed as he pointed to the four gold stripes on the epaulettes of each shoulder, indicating he is of the highest rank of a cruise ship. “A ship can carry a boat, but a boat cannot carry a ship!”, he added. 

Well I had heard that before and I had done my research which didn’t really give me the definitive answer. I was expecting something in more detail than the boat-on-ship description, hence my questioning. Now I know that our world-circumnavigating sailing friends Nicole and Jeremy (who also read these words and I am sure will be sailing at this point) would be able to enlighten me, but in stepped our Aussie friend Eric (who we first met in Vietnam many years ago) who sent me a WhatsApp mid-sailing to put me out of my misery. So I share his words of clarification:

Eric advised: “Ships are big. Boats are little. In the old days, any vessel over three masts was a ship. A boat becomes a ship after it exceeds 197 feet in length.

“With me so far? Then I shall add some more…

“A ship has a commander [or in our case a captain] and crew. But beware. Explanation from an old pusser [naval slang for purser] will leave you bewildered. To explain, they call a submarine a boat, although it has a commander and crew and is flat bottomed. Then there is a landing ‘ship’ with a flat bottom.

“Get my drift? Good. Then I will give another example. President Kennedy’s WW2 craft, the PT109, was a boat. That had a commander and crew and a pointed hull. 

“So I hope that has made it clear, and you are not still at sea – pardon the pun… well, hmmm, I hope you are still at sea!”

Thanks Eric, that has cleared it up nicely!

If truth be known I was actually seeking a photo opportunity with the Captain and Ted in his new Franklin outfit his mummy had made him specially for the trip. I am pleased to say the Captain did not disappoint.

Copyright: Words and photos 2022 Sue Barnard

After two days of sailing we reached the top of Baffin Bay where we headed onto the zodiacs for a visit ashore, to Pond Inlet in the Nunavut territory. Sir John Ross (1777-1856), the Scottish explorer, named the waterway between Bylot Island and the top right of Baffin Bay as Pond’s Bay. In 1921 the Hudson’s Bay Company set up a trading post in the area, which became Pond Inlet. Today it is a small hamlet with around 1,500, mainly Inuit, people. 

Our first stop was to drink tea, prepared on a fire fuelled with Arctic Heather. When I asked if this was a hot drink made with Greenlandic flora, our host replied: “No it is Tetley’s finest,”. I think she was kidding as the ‘cuppa’ tasted of rather smoky hot water.

She then walked us to the local museum while explaining that the temperatures can reach as low as -75 degrees Celsius, and that 20 degrees is rather warm for those living in the area. She also told us her son was working at the nearby iron mine. Mining is a controversial subject. It provides jobs, income and sometimes improved amenities, but recent attempts to expand the mine have proved a hot issue not least for its environmental impact on land and marine (with its need for increased transportation by ships). Keep in mind also that hunting on land and fishing are major sources of food for the Inuit communities.

A favourite type of entertainment for visitors and the community is a display of Arctic Games exercises. These are performed competitively but also to provide physical activity and strength, essential for hunting and general wellbeing. The Arctic Winter Games were set up in 1969 and the ‘games’, as demonstrated, are tough. They include extremely high kicking where the foot touches a hanging object at least 5 feet in the air. The record is 8 feet 8 inches using two feet, and 7 feet 10 inches using one foot while the hand holds the other. There were no volunteers from the audience!

Also demonstrated was a head pull where two competitors try to pull the other’s head around. This is worsened when one realises they have their fingers in each other’s mouths to pull via the cheek. I feel uneasy just recalling the memory.

There are finger pulls where two competitors pull each other’s fingers at the same time and use their strength and pain tolerance to see who gives in first. Then there is the race across the floor, easy until one realises this is to be done lying on the floor holding the plank position and resting on one’s clenched fists and toes. This is referred to as the knuckle hop. On the word ‘go’ or the Inuit equivalent, competitors race across the floor to see who comes first. Again this is an exercise of extreme strength and pain. All of these exercises and more were demonstrated to us with pride and excitement.

We were then entertained with drum playing and traditional dancing. The drum playing was a continuous beat, somewhat soporific and again is strenuous for the player who has to dance, bend the top half of his body over the drum, and play. This is always carried out in the same way and the drummer explained to us how difficult it is to do and a strain on the back. Children often start playing this style of drum from around six years old and one youngster of 10 years was following in his community’s traditions during the performance acting out some of the exercises and drumming techniques.

These activities were all carried out by the males. The females entertained us with group singing and, as pairs, throat singing. The latter we had heard on a previous trip to the Arctic, but is always a source of amazement. It is carried out using short rhythmic inhalations and exhalations of breath, deep within the throat. Two women face each other when performing throat singing, their rhythmic tones being influenced by one another. A performance, lasting two or three minutes always ends when the first person laughs. One of the entertainers said she had been performing for the past three days and was a little hoarse. 

This is a traditional form of entertainment originally played by women during the long winter nights while their menfolk were away hunting. It was banned by Christian missionaries in the 20th century who saw it as satanic, but eventually lifted in the 1980s. It was enlightening to see that the Inuit communities are trying to keep their traditions alive. 

Some of the entertainers wore the amauti, a parka-style coat. This includes a large hood, which can appear to hold a child. Actually, the child is carried on the mother’s back in pig-a-back style. The enlarged garment is secured at the waist and other areas with a tie to prevent the child slipping down. The amauti is big enough for the mother to manoeuvre the child to the front for feeding, keeping her offspring safe from the cold and frostbite.

One of the ladies performing had a child on her back throughout and despite her bending and shaking the child was held firmly. The mother later told us her daughter was four and a half years old, and preferred being transported this way. That was exceptional and must have felt like a daily workout. Most children are held like this until they are two years old. 

Copyright: Words and photos Sue Barnard 2022

It was time to head much further north to reach Lancaster Sound and our ultimate destination of Beechey Island where some of Franklin’s men are buried. Achieving this meant the captain had to put his foot down and we had to be at sea for the next two days. This took us away from Davis Strait and into Baffin Bay.

We tried to imagine what Franklin’s men would have felt as they sailed the seas northwards in the 1800s. Weather conditions change from hour to hour in the Arctic, from wet to sunny with fairly mild temperatures (today 2-6 degrees Celsius), and calm clear waters, to freezing temperatures, surface ice, icebergs and fog.

We do know that Franklin called into Disko Bay for supplies, which is where we were located on days three and four on the map above. It was at Disko Bay that it has been recorded a few members of the crew were sent back to England. Different stories have been told that this was because of ill health or perhaps too much rum. Whatever the reasons, they may have ultimately felt very lucky that their outcome was more fortuitous than their shipmates.

The Expedition Team was always keen to keep us occupied with lectures several times daily when we were not on the zodiacs or on land. These were always of a high quality, presented by two historians, zoologists, botanists, two marine biologists, two ornithologists, and two glaciologist, who were all part of the 31-person team. Each day would also include a recap of what we had achieved in the previous 24 hours.

One of the historians was Captain Ken Burton who had many awards to his name. He spent more than 25 years working in different top level capacities in the Arctic including Vessel Commander on various RCMP (Royal Canadian Mounted Police) patrol vessels. In 2000, as Captain of the St Roch II ship, he retraced the original St Roch voyages of 1940-42 circumnavigating North America via the Northwest Passage and Panama Canal. This took 169 days, covered 24,000 nautical miles and was the 73rd ship to navigate the Northwest Passage. Times have changed since Franklin’s day. Today more than 300 ships have passed through the Passage.

Ken stressed to us how Franklin’s team would have met unimaginable obstacles with continuous fog, seasickness, tiredness, increasing illness, frostbite, hunger at the latter stages, desperation, and nothing like the equipment mariners have today – just think of the advances in clothing alone. He said: “These were unchartered waters. The men took on a duty and an oath, for which they ultimately paid with their lives”.

The search for a shorter trading route through the high Arctic between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans was a major initiative for the British Admiralty. The search for the crew that followed was the most intense apart for the more recent search for the Malaysia Airlines flight MH370 which disappeared in 2014.

The mystery of what happened to the Franklin men continues to this day. According to Ken, the finding of the Erebus and Terror “raises more questions than answers”. The wrecks, found in 2014 and 2016 respectively, are still being studied in situ at the bottom of the ocean and with great sensitivity as some of the bodies may have gone down with the ships, which raises ethical issues. There are still more than 20 bodies that have not been accounted for.

Moving on to our second day, sea conditions were calm enough to take to the zodiacs to see icebergs, ice and some wildlife.

Copyright: Words and photos Sue Barnard 2022

Today we headed back down south as the weather was improving. Our destination was Sisimiut just above the Arctic Circle. It is the second-largest city in Greenland mixing modern methods with traditional ways such as hunting. The area has been occupied for an estimated 4,500 years, first by the people of the Saqqaq culture, followed by the Dorset culture and then the Thules.

The current population is a mix of Inuit and Danish – the latter settling here in the 1720s. This city too has a large population of Greenlandic sledge dogs which is evidence of the hunting tradition.

Sisimiut was our first (and only) dry landing, with the ship being able to dock at the quay. We took a walk around the area passing a new form of graffiti. A local artist had been commissioned to engrave the rocks with a range of sea life. It would have been interesting to see the end result.

We took a short walk up the steep hillside to get a wider view, then headed down to visit an interesting museum of old buildings retained to keep Sisimiut’s architectural and cultural history alive. This included a turf house being a reconstruction of a dwelling typical of the early 20th century. It comprised layers of turf and soil interspersed with rocks. Remains of this type of construction can still be seen along the coastline of Sisimiut.

The turf houses can be roughly dated. During the earlier days of construction, they would accommodate several families in the one dwelling. When the Christian mission later arrived in Greenland this way of living was dissuaded because of possible ‘indiscretions’. We were to learn that this is just one example of how ‘outsiders’ have thrust their attitudes onto other cultures. The design of those multi-family dwellings was later changed to housing two families.

A Colonial Manager’s house dated from 1846 as a two-story building and was greatly extended, including adding a further floor. This was the home and office of the manager of the colony of Holsteinsborg (now known as Sisimiut). In the early 1900s Arctic explorers would visit to collect provisions and await better weather conditions. These are said to have included polar explorer Knud Rasmussen, aviation pioneer Charles Lindbergh, and Scottish botanist Isobel Hutchison. 

Inside the Colonial Manager’s house was a display of office equipment including telex, duplicating machines and an Olympia typewriter – gosh, I remember working with a brand new one of those a long time ago. I would add it didn’t date back to the 1800s when the house was erected!

There were some interesting points about the nearby Bethel Church. It was built in Denmark in 1771, paid for by Sisimiut residents for the grand sum of 60 barrels of whale blubber. Once built, it was disassembled in Denmark and re-erected in Greenland but was not consecrated for two years because of storms and epidemics. The delay is still evident. Its weathercock has the inscription 1773 rather than the consecration date of 1775.

After the trip around the historic houses we were invited to a food tasting. It was good to talk to the local people about just some of their food. First up was dried whale, which was black and had a meaty taste and texture. It was nice but I had to put any thoughts of whale hunting out of my mind. Its appearance was just like meat with a fibrous texture although it was black. 

Then we tried whale skin, also known as mattak. Yummy. Actually it was very chewy, a bit like eating a rubber eraser. The outer skin was fibrous and very fishy and the inner layer was rubbery. This is a delicacy and often served on festive occasions with mustard or garlic.

Next up was caplan, known locally as ammassak. This was like large whitebait and had a strong fishy taste which was improved by adding soy sauce. 

The dried cod (nutaaq) which is left to dry in the sun and wind, was a cream colour, very fibrous and difficult to chew and soften. It is often eaten with mustard. Then we were on to the delicately-flavoured shrimps and snow crab claws, the latter being large and meaty although we had to borrow a Swiss Army knife to crack the shell.

We also tried the musk ox (moskus) sausage, which was similar to salami but a mild flavour. Overall my favourite, apart from the more familiar crab and shrimps, was to my surprise the black whale meat.

On return to the ship we were welcomed by an Inuit kayaker. We think he was the same chap we saw when in this area in 2014. He performed for about 20 minutes, displaying various turns each involving flipping the kayak so that he went down into the water and up again. 

Children learn these techniques from around six years old and before they are let out into the deep water they have to be able to perform 60 different types of turn holding their paddle and sometimes a wooden spear or other items to catch their prey.

Once back to our cabin we were introduced to the art of towel folding by our talented cabin attendant. This evening was the hippo.

Copyright: Words and photos Sue Barnard 2022

The dogs aren’t friendly, they smell and they have fleas, but despite that they serve a very important purpose in Ilulissat, a ‘city’ (it is quite small) 350 km north of the Arctic Circle. 

The Huskies are working dogs. They pull the sledges, which form an important means of transport for the Inuits who live here. Ilulissat is the first community above the Arctic Circle to have working dogs – only those living within the Arctic Circle are allowed them. Why, you might ask. Because of what they eat – fish. It smells before they consume it and afterwards. Basically, they smell from both ends. The reason people must not pet or feed the dogs is because they may then become friendly with humans and, we were told, will not be effective as a working dog becoming more domesticated. If they are not effective, they are no longer of use and, without putting too finer point, their days are numbered.

The dogs live outside in all weathers. There used to be more dogs in Ilulissat than humans, but this has now changed. The population of 4,500 people is, today, favouring other means of (fuelled) transport, plus their diet can now be supplemented with imported – rather than solely hunted – food.

Ilulissat is the third largest city behind Nuuk and Sisimiut. It was founded as a trading post in 1741. Today it is known for its shrimp fishing industry in which many of its community are involved. The shrimps are distributed worldwide, including to the UK. A famous name from this town is Knud Rasmussen, polar explorer and anthropologist. The house in which he was born in 1879 is now a small museum dedicated to his achievements.

Due to re-routing because of ice, it was our first port of call today. Unfortunately, it was all too familiar for John who had visited on business many times over the past 30 years, and I had visited once previously.

Undeterred, we took off for a bracing walk along the conveniently-placed boardwalk to the Illulissat Icefjord, now a UNESCO World Heritage site. My leg muscles were certainly pleased that clambering over rocks was not a requirement. The boardwalk was a great idea. As well as it making the walking easier, it meant that the delicate vegetation that fights hard to survive in these cold, icy, conditions, was not trampled on. Some plants in the Arctic have a growing season of only a couple of weeks and they have to root in shallow depths because of the permafrost – a permanently frozen, hard, layer of soil, gravel, sand and ice a few inches beneath. They also have to face strong winds. Consequently, the vegetation seen in the Arctic is predominately shallow-growing, with few leaves. A willow, for example, may be spreading just a few inches above ground, but in other climates may be several feet tall. In some parts of the Arctic, as temperatures become warmer, exceptional willow growth has become a problem for the Inuit. Some of this same plant can be 6 feet tall, and has been known to reach forest height, which has seriously impacted Inuit traditional hunting routes.

A 20-minute meander along the boardwalk led us to the Icefjord where the ice gathers. The glacier from which the ice has calved is many kilometres further inland. It is estimated this glacier produces around 10% of Greenland’s icebergs. Up to 20 million tons of ice calves off the glacier each day!

Then we were off to see the recently-built ice museum in the town, the Icefjord Centre, which also provided access for a walk over the roof. The appealing architecture fitted nicely into the landscape, and its design by female architect Dorte Mandrup would be a draw for tourists. The design was inspired by the wingspan of the snowy owl in flight.

Within the museum we learned about ice and its different forms (there are 200 Inuit words for ice), the sea and wildlife in the area, and the history of the people. A high point for me was a room with a most unusual audio presentation. There were around 10 sets of headphones each transmitting recordings from within various Greenlandic glaciers. Different levels of cracks and squeaks could be heard, each quite different from the other. It really gave a different prospective about the glaciers and how they are almost a living entity.

In the afternoon we got up close and personal to some of the icebergs via the zodiacs, admiring their unique colours and formations. 

Copyright: Words and photos: Sue Barnard 2022 except as specified above

Wow, I could feel my leg muscles this morning after that rock hike yesterday! And if I thought that walk was tiring I was in for a big shock today when we landed near Eqip Sermia, about 70 kilometres from Ilulissat.

Eqip Sermia is almost 4 kilometres wide and 200 metres above the sea. It is one of the largest calving glaciers in Greenland. The emphasis on calving is important as thunderclaps prior to the ice falling in massive quantities happen on a, too regular, basis. 

The glacier could be seen when we landed at the shore, but to get a real sense of its enormity a walk near to it was on offer and recommended – of course we would be far away from splashing-distance. Carvings can cause tsunamis. 

Now the tricky bit, although I did not realise it at the time. The walk was even rockier and longer than the day before… oh, and far steeper. 

I started, with hiking pole in hand for extra stability, up and over the big and small unsteady rocks. And this went on, and on. Up and down those rocks, never a steady piece of land to relax upon or get one’s balance. After about 45 minutes we came to a fast-flowing stream caused by glacier melt. The beautiful, clear and cold water rushed through the rocks, and we had to clamber over them. 

The Expedition Team members were on hand with their sailor’s wrist grips to drag me from one rock, over a rocky piece of wood one boot wide, and onto the next rocks until we were over the wide river. 

Then up and up again. Reaching the next ridge I thought we were at the top. I should have learned from the day before. If there is a ridge, there is certain to be another, and another to surmount.

This climbing went on for a couple of hours and I was exhausted. As I clambered my way up others were starting to come down, having made the summit. I looked back, nobody was behind but having come so far, I was not giving up. From the great height I could not see the glacier. John and Dr Dave were on hand to haul me up. It was rather fortunate that the ship’s doctor was with us, you never know when you will need a doctor in these conditions, especially for broken ankles and legs, trips and grazes. 

Eventually we reached the summit. No cake and tea on this occasion unfortunately, but getting a closer look at the calving glacier was tremendous, as was seeing its enormity and beautiful white and blue colours. Dark patches could be sediment, laid down millions of years ago.

But the effort to take a closer look at a calving glacier was worthwhile. Even while we were heading back to the ship we continued to hear the thunderclaps and crashing ice from the glacier calving.

Then it was back to base. Yes, it is just as difficult clambering over rocks to get down and I really did not fancy going over that rushing stream again. Part way down it was suggested that us latecomers might be picked up from a closer location by a zodiac. That sounded good to me, I had little energy left. So we changed direction towards the sea. Any distance looks far shorter in the Arctic. The journey seemed no shorter in time, and up and down the rocks we went. I was quite relieved to get to the shore and the waiting zodiac. I was sapped of energy.

Copyright: Words and photos: Sue Barnard 2022

AND we’re off. Having hardly settled in we’re off again. Our first adventure off the ship came on our first full morning aboard. The plan was to take the zodiacs to shore near Lake Inussuit Tasersuat, south of Kangerlussuaq, Greenland.

Upon arrival, after a 10 minute ship to shore zodiac journey, we were told it would be a bit of a steep climb over the rocks to reach the lake, but it would be worth it as the view would be good. Even more of a temptation was the enjoyment of Kaffemik, which is a Greenlandic tradition – a social gathering, with food. Our Kaffemik was to be Greenlandic cake with a tea made of Greenlandic flora.

So we started the initial low ascent towards the rocks. Then, having reached the rocks, we climbed.. and climbed, and climbed. Actually it took well over an hour to reach what I thought was the viewpoint. But no. At the top of the first ridge, we saw… well, of course, a second ridge. Once at that ridge, you guessed it, we saw another ridge. And so it went on. At the top of the final ridge there was our Kaffemik. A most welcoming teabread-style cake with raisins and spread with butter. It was so nice, I had to have another slice… obviously to get me down the impending climb. This was served by two local Inuit people, which brings me nicely onto the tea, which is a tradition amongst the Inuit.

The tea tasted rather weak – a little like a herbal tea. Later investigation revealed this is Labrador tea made from a plant related to the Rhododendron. Excessive drinking can lead to vomiting and drowsiness. Larger doses can result in cramps, convulsion, paralysis and death. It is also a diuretic. I am rather glad (unlike the cake) that I stuck to one helping.

All of the ingredients for the teabread had to be imported from Denmark – the flour, fat and raisins. Greenland is dependant on so many items from overseas as they do not produce them in their homeland and this really bumps up the prices and consequently the cost of living.

The view at the top was of Lake Inussuit Tasersuat, and was beautiful. Some guests said it reminded them of Lake Louise in Canada. It was certainly worth the long and exhausting hike up. 

But then we had to descend. It took just as long going down, treading cautiously over the landscape of rocks and undergrowth. Treading without thought on the rocks could lead to a broken ankle. Stepping on the undergrowth of mosses and low-growing fauna may also lead to a broken ankle as there could be large holes underneath. “Stick to the rocks, you know where you are with them,” I was told. But that was easier said than done. Also keep in mind that we needed to wear lots of clothing because of the cold – at least four layers – and we had heavy camera gear.  We then headed back to enjoy hot apple and cinnamon juice.

In the afternoon we were due to visit Maniitsoq, a small community with around 2,500 inhabitants. Archaeology has revealed that people were living here 4,000 years ago. Danish colonists arrived in 1755, and by the 19th century it was a major trading post for reindeer hides. Notable people born in Maniitsog include Thue Christiansen, the designer of the Greenlandic flag.

But nothing is set in stone (or ice) in Polar exploration. ice and winds were increasing around the area and rather than heading south along the Greenland coast we headed into calmer waters north. This also meant that the following day we could not visit Nuuk, the capital of Greenland, further south. John had visited this town several times before, as well as the museum, which was to be a highlight.

Not to disappoint, an Expedition Team member specialising in the history of the region gave a lecture on the 500 year old Greenland mummies, a most significant find within the country. They are in the Nuuk museum and comprise six women, a young boy and a male baby. Most important is that they were found at all. They are considered to be part of the Thule community which inhabited the area from 800AD. Thule tradition was not to bury those who had passed away, but to leave them out in the elements and subsequently return to nature. They were found by chance buried (which was most unusual) in Qilakitsoq in 1972. The cold climate had preserved the bodies.

DNA analysis found that some of them were related. Some had similar facial tattoos. Almost 80 pieces of clothing were found comprising reindeer and seal. There was also a jacket made of the skin of different species of bird.

How they died and why they were buried is unknown. One had almost a full set of teeth. The tooth surfaces of some older women were flattened due to the method used of softening the animal skins with the teeth and mouth for use in clothing. Some women also had grooves in their teeth and on their fingers, again from softening sinew for sewing. It is known that they did not suffer from malnutrition and their mercury, lead and copper levels were lower than in humans today.

Copyright: Words and photos: Sue Barnard 2022

Crikey, this ship/boat doesn’t have an anchor! It’ll be just like that dream I had after Bulgaria when we were racing down the hairpin bends without brakes! 

But, we are reassured, there is no need to worry. This ship/boat (I haven’t found the answer to that query yet) doesn’t need an anchor. It stays in place with the latest technology, GPS, and coordinates (remember those, again from Bulgaria?).

We are sailing on a brand new Ultramarine. It’s swish, and has been designed by our tour company Quark Expeditions with Polar exploration in mind. It’s certainly a step up since our previous sailing experience with the company eight years ago. Our cabin keys have all the latest technology. Apart from opening our cabin door our ‘keys’ (similar to a credit card) slip into the sleeves of our bright yellow parkas so that we can be zapped in and out when we leave and return on board. The computer records everything, including any purchases at the onboard shop, spa treatments (no time for those with our hectic schedule), and tells those who need to know, who we are – handy if we fall overboard! That hectic schedule includes explorations, and daily lectures, presentations and recaps. If guests decide not to attend they can watch the ‘Zoom-style’ recordings on their cabin TV screens – that is, when they are not watching ice-related films.

We arrived somewhat weary into this lap of luxury after a slow journey from Toronto to Kangerlussuaq. The temperature on arrival was warmer than I expected, based on previous Arctic experiences and I didn’t need the multiple layers I had donned, together with snood and thermal hat. One can never be too sure! 

Covid precautions are uppermost in the minds of the organisers. The ship is at two-thirds capacity, making room for isolation cabins if they are needed. There are around 130 guests, plus approximately 100 staff. This includes 23 people in the kitchens and many Expedition Team members who organise our every minute of the day with adventures to land or on zodiac boats to see the wildlife and icebergs. Masks are to be worn in all areas outside the cabin unless passengers are eating or drinking. 

We were to find out that mask wearing was to prove quite a restriction, particularly regarding facial recognition and interaction with others. It really is difficult to recognise people time and again if their full faces cannot be seen. Additionally, the dining room has been laid out, quite sensibly, with tables of two, or four people to a table of six, for example. Where people would have interacted over a meal, for safety reasons it is better to opt for a table of two.

More emphasis on safety followed, with the mandatory zodiac and lifeboat drills within 24 hours of boarding. First up was a demonstration of the hand to wrist sailor’s grip when getting on and off the zodiacs. Next we had to return to our cabins to collect our life jackets and survival kit comprising merino wool socks, liner gloves, mittens and gloves. There was a thermal sleeping bag that accommodated our big life jacket; sun lotion, should we be stranded for some time (haven’t seen the sun for a while here); sun glasses to prevent snow blindness; a knife should we wish to gut a fish; and a whistle.

Most interesting was a 70-page Arctic survival guide advising how to create a tent out of a parachute (not sure where I will get one of those though); ground to air emergency signs comprising 18 codes to draw on the earth (an L shape indicates need for fuel and oil, two L shapes means all is well, and a square means require map and compass). I am not sure of the sign for ‘get me out of here and fast!’.

Then delving into the bottom of the kit bag I find a cup, no doubt for the Seven Oceans standard emergency ration. Goodness knows what that is but it weighs a tonne. Nine servings provide 271 calories each of wheat flour, palm fat, sugar and vitamins. Hmmm my favourite, but joking aside, we would be mighty grateful if we had to use them and with our history we don’t take that lightly. In 2018, our ship ‘Akademik Ioffe’ hit the rocks and we had to be rescued by the Canadian Coastguard from high up in the Arctic. Luckily we did not have to use the lifeboats.

The lifeboats on our ship today are very modern and can hold 85 passengers, which is pretty incredible when viewed from the outside. I think they must be double deckers. 

So now we are ready to settle in with much excitement of what lies ahead, but a trip around the decks provided some extra reassurance. Spotted hidden on one of the decks was a huge anchor. The captain’s motto must be “Always pack a spare”.

Copyright: Words and photos: Sue Barnard 2022 

Hurray. Splish splosh and away. We have passed our second mandatory Covid test and we can now sail after four long years.

Actually, despite the elation, I am feeling quite emotional prior to our sailing. While we are much looking forward to the trip especially with our history of the Northwest Passage when in 2018 we hit the rocks within 24 hours of sailing and had to be rescued from the northern extremities of the Arctic by the Canadian Coastguard over the following 24 hours; then, having rebooked for 2019, there were ship availability issues; and following that the company went belly-up prior to our 2020 sailing due to the knock-on (pun intended) effect of the crash, one cannot overlook what this route is all about.

A hundred and twenty-nine men lost their lives in the mid 1800s in the search to find a faster shipping route from Europe to Asia. And they would have died an awful death, of cold, malnutrition, disease and despair having overwintered for two seasons, ice-bound. In a last-ditched attempt they abandoned the HMS Terror and HMS Erebus in a bid to find a way back via the ice and, hopefully, the Back River. They never reached the Back River.

What also saddens me is the fact that, while many of the leading names from the admiralty were honoured after that time, one John Rae never was. He originated from Orkney and was a surgeon. His upbringing in the rugged areas of Scotland provided him with essential skills for his future working life. He was noted for his stamina, hunting skills and boat handling. He later became employed by the Hudson Bay Company as a fur trapper and land mapper. His inquisitive nature and a strong desire to learn survival techniques led him to work with native groups to acquire their skills. He also learned the art of surveying.

Throughout 1846 to 1854, while working with the Hudson Bay Company, he mapped almost 1,800 miles of uncharted Arctic lands, particularly along the coasts.

To cut a very long story short, Rae visited remote Inuit communities, one being at Repulse Bay where the local people wished to trade ‘relics’, which included silverware engraved with the crests or initials of Franklin’s crew. Through an interpreter he found that four winters previously about 40 men had passed through the area dragging a small boat. Their leader was a tall man, later thought to be Francis Crozier, second-in-command to Sir John Franklin. They had traded items from the ships with the Inuit communities in exchange for food. At a later stage the Inuit communities found 30 bodies and evidence of cannibalism.

Rae reported his findings to the UK Government in a confidential report. The intention was for this never to be made public. However, it did become public, the findings published in the media and also in Charles Dickens’ ‘London Illustrated’. Dickens was a friend of Lady Jane Franklin, the wife of Sir John. The Victorian public were in disbelief that such fine and decent men could resort to cannibalism. Rae was vilified. He never received a knighthood for his hard work and findings.

Other people followed in his footsteps to find out more about the outcome of the men and their two ships. The story continues even today. It was only in recent years that the grand discovery was made of the sunken ships, the HMS Erebus and HMS Terror. Part of the attraction of sailing with One Ocean in 2018 was that they were involved in the transportation of researchers to the site of those sunken ships.

So interested were we both in the history of John Rae that we visited Orkney where he lived in the early years, seeing his home which still stands, his resting place in St Magnus Cathedral, Kirkwell, and his memorial inside the Cathedral. There are some people today still fighting for a knighthood for Rae in recognition of his efforts.

Our current trip is taking a less involved route. In 2018 we were to travel between Prince of Wales Island and King William Island which appears to be notorious for ice as Franklin’s men found out. Hopefully our trip will be less frozen. We are yet to find out. We are scheduled to visit Beechey Island where some of Franklin’s men are buried. That will be a salutary moment.

As I watch the weather forecast it seems that rain and fog will be with us. This is not uncommon. We happened by chance to bump into Michael Palin at the Greenwich Maritime Museum a few years ago when he was researching his book on the HMS Erebus. He was a really nice guy and happy to talk. He had been on the One Ocean trip. When I asked how he had found it, he said “There was a lot of fog”.

So we head towards the north tomorrow with fingers crossed. But I would like to say a special thank you to our friend Liz. For it was with her, over the years on the golf course, that such maritime explorers were discussed, and I got hooked… not in the golfing sense you understand!

Copyright: Words and photos: Sue Barnard 2022