Time to complete the Bucket List

AND we’re off. Having hardly settled in we’re off again. Our first adventure off the ship came on our first full morning aboard. The plan was to take the zodiacs to shore near Lake Inussuit Tasersuat, south of Kangerlussuaq, Greenland.

Upon arrival, after a 10 minute ship to shore zodiac journey, we were told it would be a bit of a steep climb over the rocks to reach the lake, but it would be worth it as the view would be good. Even more of a temptation was the enjoyment of Kaffemik, which is a Greenlandic tradition – a social gathering, with food. Our Kaffemik was to be Greenlandic cake with a tea made of Greenlandic flora.

So we started the initial low ascent towards the rocks. Then, having reached the rocks, we climbed.. and climbed, and climbed. Actually it took well over an hour to reach what I thought was the viewpoint. But no. At the top of the first ridge, we saw… well, of course, a second ridge. Once at that ridge, you guessed it, we saw another ridge. And so it went on. At the top of the final ridge there was our Kaffemik. A most welcoming teabread-style cake with raisins and spread with butter. It was so nice, I had to have another slice… obviously to get me down the impending climb. This was served by two local Inuit people, which brings me nicely onto the tea, which is a tradition amongst the Inuit.

The tea tasted rather weak – a little like a herbal tea. Later investigation revealed this is Labrador tea made from a plant related to the Rhododendron. Excessive drinking can lead to vomiting and drowsiness. Larger doses can result in cramps, convulsion, paralysis and death. It is also a diuretic. I am rather glad (unlike the cake) that I stuck to one helping.

All of the ingredients for the teabread had to be imported from Denmark – the flour, fat and raisins. Greenland is dependant on so many items from overseas as they do not produce them in their homeland and this really bumps up the prices and consequently the cost of living.

The view at the top was of Lake Inussuit Tasersuat, and was beautiful. Some guests said it reminded them of Lake Louise in Canada. It was certainly worth the long and exhausting hike up. 

But then we had to descend. It took just as long going down, treading cautiously over the landscape of rocks and undergrowth. Treading without thought on the rocks could lead to a broken ankle. Stepping on the undergrowth of mosses and low-growing fauna may also lead to a broken ankle as there could be large holes underneath. “Stick to the rocks, you know where you are with them,” I was told. But that was easier said than done. Also keep in mind that we needed to wear lots of clothing because of the cold – at least four layers – and we had heavy camera gear.  We then headed back to enjoy hot apple and cinnamon juice.

In the afternoon we were due to visit Maniitsoq, a small community with around 2,500 inhabitants. Archaeology has revealed that people were living here 4,000 years ago. Danish colonists arrived in 1755, and by the 19th century it was a major trading post for reindeer hides. Notable people born in Maniitsog include Thue Christiansen, the designer of the Greenlandic flag.

But nothing is set in stone (or ice) in Polar exploration. ice and winds were increasing around the area and rather than heading south along the Greenland coast we headed into calmer waters north. This also meant that the following day we could not visit Nuuk, the capital of Greenland, further south. John had visited this town several times before, as well as the museum, which was to be a highlight.

Not to disappoint, an Expedition Team member specialising in the history of the region gave a lecture on the 500 year old Greenland mummies, a most significant find within the country. They are in the Nuuk museum and comprise six women, a young boy and a male baby. Most important is that they were found at all. They are considered to be part of the Thule community which inhabited the area from 800AD. Thule tradition was not to bury those who had passed away, but to leave them out in the elements and subsequently return to nature. They were found by chance buried (which was most unusual) in Qilakitsoq in 1972. The cold climate had preserved the bodies.

DNA analysis found that some of them were related. Some had similar facial tattoos. Almost 80 pieces of clothing were found comprising reindeer and seal. There was also a jacket made of the skin of different species of bird.

How they died and why they were buried is unknown. One had almost a full set of teeth. The tooth surfaces of some older women were flattened due to the method used of softening the animal skins with the teeth and mouth for use in clothing. Some women also had grooves in their teeth and on their fingers, again from softening sinew for sewing. It is known that they did not suffer from malnutrition and their mercury, lead and copper levels were lower than in humans today.

Copyright: Words and photos: Sue Barnard 2022

Crikey, this ship/boat doesn’t have an anchor! It’ll be just like that dream I had after Bulgaria when we were racing down the hairpin bends without brakes! 

But, we are reassured, there is no need to worry. This ship/boat (I haven’t found the answer to that query yet) doesn’t need an anchor. It stays in place with the latest technology, GPS, and coordinates (remember those, again from Bulgaria?).

We are sailing on a brand new Ultramarine. It’s swish, and has been designed by our tour company Quark Expeditions with Polar exploration in mind. It’s certainly a step up since our previous sailing experience with the company eight years ago. Our cabin keys have all the latest technology. Apart from opening our cabin door our ‘keys’ (similar to a credit card) slip into the sleeves of our bright yellow parkas so that we can be zapped in and out when we leave and return on board. The computer records everything, including any purchases at the onboard shop, spa treatments (no time for those with our hectic schedule), and tells those who need to know, who we are – handy if we fall overboard! That hectic schedule includes explorations, and daily lectures, presentations and recaps. If guests decide not to attend they can watch the ‘Zoom-style’ recordings on their cabin TV screens – that is, when they are not watching ice-related films.

We arrived somewhat weary into this lap of luxury after a slow journey from Toronto to Kangerlussuaq. The temperature on arrival was warmer than I expected, based on previous Arctic experiences and I didn’t need the multiple layers I had donned, together with snood and thermal hat. One can never be too sure! 

Covid precautions are uppermost in the minds of the organisers. The ship is at two-thirds capacity, making room for isolation cabins if they are needed. There are around 130 guests, plus approximately 100 staff. This includes 23 people in the kitchens and many Expedition Team members who organise our every minute of the day with adventures to land or on zodiac boats to see the wildlife and icebergs. Masks are to be worn in all areas outside the cabin unless passengers are eating or drinking. 

We were to find out that mask wearing was to prove quite a restriction, particularly regarding facial recognition and interaction with others. It really is difficult to recognise people time and again if their full faces cannot be seen. Additionally, the dining room has been laid out, quite sensibly, with tables of two, or four people to a table of six, for example. Where people would have interacted over a meal, for safety reasons it is better to opt for a table of two.

More emphasis on safety followed, with the mandatory zodiac and lifeboat drills within 24 hours of boarding. First up was a demonstration of the hand to wrist sailor’s grip when getting on and off the zodiacs. Next we had to return to our cabins to collect our life jackets and survival kit comprising merino wool socks, liner gloves, mittens and gloves. There was a thermal sleeping bag that accommodated our big life jacket; sun lotion, should we be stranded for some time (haven’t seen the sun for a while here); sun glasses to prevent snow blindness; a knife should we wish to gut a fish; and a whistle.

Most interesting was a 70-page Arctic survival guide advising how to create a tent out of a parachute (not sure where I will get one of those though); ground to air emergency signs comprising 18 codes to draw on the earth (an L shape indicates need for fuel and oil, two L shapes means all is well, and a square means require map and compass). I am not sure of the sign for ‘get me out of here and fast!’.

Then delving into the bottom of the kit bag I find a cup, no doubt for the Seven Oceans standard emergency ration. Goodness knows what that is but it weighs a tonne. Nine servings provide 271 calories each of wheat flour, palm fat, sugar and vitamins. Hmmm my favourite, but joking aside, we would be mighty grateful if we had to use them and with our history we don’t take that lightly. In 2018, our ship ‘Akademik Ioffe’ hit the rocks and we had to be rescued by the Canadian Coastguard from high up in the Arctic. Luckily we did not have to use the lifeboats.

The lifeboats on our ship today are very modern and can hold 85 passengers, which is pretty incredible when viewed from the outside. I think they must be double deckers. 

So now we are ready to settle in with much excitement of what lies ahead, but a trip around the decks provided some extra reassurance. Spotted hidden on one of the decks was a huge anchor. The captain’s motto must be “Always pack a spare”.

Copyright: Words and photos: Sue Barnard 2022 

Hurray. Splish splosh and away. We have passed our second mandatory Covid test and we can now sail after four long years.

Actually, despite the elation, I am feeling quite emotional prior to our sailing. While we are much looking forward to the trip especially with our history of the Northwest Passage when in 2018 we hit the rocks within 24 hours of sailing and had to be rescued from the northern extremities of the Arctic by the Canadian Coastguard over the following 24 hours; then, having rebooked for 2019, there were ship availability issues; and following that the company went belly-up prior to our 2020 sailing due to the knock-on (pun intended) effect of the crash, one cannot overlook what this route is all about.

A hundred and twenty-nine men lost their lives in the mid 1800s in the search to find a faster shipping route from Europe to Asia. And they would have died an awful death, of cold, malnutrition, disease and despair having overwintered for two seasons, ice-bound. In a last-ditched attempt they abandoned the HMS Terror and HMS Erebus in a bid to find a way back via the ice and, hopefully, the Back River. They never reached the Back River.

What also saddens me is the fact that, while many of the leading names from the admiralty were honoured after that time, one John Rae never was. He originated from Orkney and was a surgeon. His upbringing in the rugged areas of Scotland provided him with essential skills for his future working life. He was noted for his stamina, hunting skills and boat handling. He later became employed by the Hudson Bay Company as a fur trapper and land mapper. His inquisitive nature and a strong desire to learn survival techniques led him to work with native groups to acquire their skills. He also learned the art of surveying.

Throughout 1846 to 1854, while working with the Hudson Bay Company, he mapped almost 1,800 miles of uncharted Arctic lands, particularly along the coasts.

To cut a very long story short, Rae visited remote Inuit communities, one being at Repulse Bay where the local people wished to trade ‘relics’, which included silverware engraved with the crests or initials of Franklin’s crew. Through an interpreter he found that four winters previously about 40 men had passed through the area dragging a small boat. Their leader was a tall man, later thought to be Francis Crozier, second-in-command to Sir John Franklin. They had traded items from the ships with the Inuit communities in exchange for food. At a later stage the Inuit communities found 30 bodies and evidence of cannibalism.

Rae reported his findings to the UK Government in a confidential report. The intention was for this never to be made public. However, it did become public, the findings published in the media and also in Charles Dickens’ ‘London Illustrated’. Dickens was a friend of Lady Jane Franklin, the wife of Sir John. The Victorian public were in disbelief that such fine and decent men could resort to cannibalism. Rae was vilified. He never received a knighthood for his hard work and findings.

Other people followed in his footsteps to find out more about the outcome of the men and their two ships. The story continues even today. It was only in recent years that the grand discovery was made of the sunken ships, the HMS Erebus and HMS Terror. Part of the attraction of sailing with One Ocean in 2018 was that they were involved in the transportation of researchers to the site of those sunken ships.

So interested were we both in the history of John Rae that we visited Orkney where he lived in the early years, seeing his home which still stands, his resting place in St Magnus Cathedral, Kirkwell, and his memorial inside the Cathedral. There are some people today still fighting for a knighthood for Rae in recognition of his efforts.

Our current trip is taking a less involved route. In 2018 we were to travel between Prince of Wales Island and King William Island which appears to be notorious for ice as Franklin’s men found out. Hopefully our trip will be less frozen. We are yet to find out. We are scheduled to visit Beechey Island where some of Franklin’s men are buried. That will be a salutary moment.

As I watch the weather forecast it seems that rain and fog will be with us. This is not uncommon. We happened by chance to bump into Michael Palin at the Greenwich Maritime Museum a few years ago when he was researching his book on the HMS Erebus. He was a really nice guy and happy to talk. He had been on the One Ocean trip. When I asked how he had found it, he said “There was a lot of fog”.

So we head towards the north tomorrow with fingers crossed. But I would like to say a special thank you to our friend Liz. For it was with her, over the years on the golf course, that such maritime explorers were discussed, and I got hooked… not in the golfing sense you understand!

Copyright: Words and photos: Sue Barnard 2022

Gearing up for our long-awaited trip to the Northwest Passage we thought we would arrive early at our departure point, Toronto. We wouldn’t wish to miss the boat. Well actually the charter flight to Greenland that will take us to catch the boat (or is it a ship? I must check that out).

Why you ask are we flying to Toronto, Canada, to then fly back to Greenland? Well that’s just the way it is, and we don’t want to rock the boat/ship, which is fine for those travelling from the US or Canada, but not so good for those ‘guests’ (that’s us!) from Europe. But to make the most of it we decided to book a couple of tours.

As it turned out, we couldn’t have chosen a busier weekend. We had booked into Downtown Toronto, by Lake Ontario (rather more hectic than I imagined with the hotel overlooking the Toronto Police mooring, lots of sailing and the small but busy Billy Bishop city airport).

Toronto was to prove the location of two important events this weekend: The Toronto Carnival on Saturday, and the Blue Jays baseball team playing the Detroit Tigers at their home ground – the Rogers Centre – on Sunday.

Unfortunately the timing of the Carnival did not fit well with our schedule, but we did see many scantily-dressed men and women embarking onto the city’s streetcars (trams). It is evident that sales of baby oil and glitter soured this week as a result of the Carnival.

Our food tour was departing from Kensington Market in central Downtown. With images in my mind of London’s Kensington Market hippy days of old, we headed to meet the tour guide and 10 other hungry tourists. Alas, Kensington Market is not a covered marketplace as the London venue once was, but a district, nonetheless vibrant. It, interestingly, has a vintage clothing section, but this is nothing like the elephant-flared trouser days of Kensington High Street.

We were informed that Canada has a high immigrant population at 51% and Toronto has a grand history of integration. This area was populated by British workers, and later by Jewish immigrants who adapted the Victorian houses into family-run stores. Consequently the area became known as the Jewish market, and later Kensington Market. These converted houses can still be seen today.

Our food tour took us to seven different outlets, starting at Nu Bugel, a bagel cafe. I have never been keen on bagels, but found out that the consistency and taste of the product varies according to the company producing it. The best bagels, we were told, needed to be cooked on a wood-burning stove, and the secret of the taste depended on the water involved, a particular favourite being honey-flavoured liquid. Certainly, the smoked trout bagel at this cafe was the best I had come across, with a woody sweet taste.

We were then off for a taste of the Caribbean at the Golden Patty. Here we ate beef patties, although we could have had goat or many other meat and veggie varieties. This was a spicy but strange concoction involving what was best described as a samosa within a bap.

Over the next two hours we ate jumbo empanadas with stringy mozzarella; double fried fish which was rather good and would be a fine fit within UK fish and chip shops; and Swedish ginger cookies.

This was all rather filling, but one visit we would not recommend was to a Tibetan cafe serving tea made with butter and salt, and no milk. Nobody could finish that drink. It was an acquired taste.

Throughout the walk we saw a lot of painted houses and an unusual take of horticultural art – car planting. This was a community project amongst which those involved shared the produce. A smart idea, but not an installation one would want outside one’s house on a permanent basis.

Our walking tour the following day took us around the commercial district when we found out that there are more than 20 miles of underground walkways, containing shops and cafes. These walkways enable people to avoid the coldest of weathers in the winter and the hottest of days in the summer.

We saw fine architecture, mixing old with new. There was even a financial building with gold reflective windows containing real gold.

Some philanthropists had donated art around public squares and there were lots of floral plantings giving a clean, relaxing appearance. Below is Tembo, mother of elephants, by Derrick Hudson, a beautifully-crafted sculpture.

A few sites stood out for us during this trip. One was a fountain featuring dogs, now known as dog fountain park, which is timely since the rise in small dog ownership in Toronto seems to be a similar trend throughout many countries since the Pandemic.

Another rare opportunity was to see the vault of what was once the Dominion Bank at One King West. This 40 tonne vault was built in England in 1913 and shipped to Toronto where 18 horses dragged it to its final destination underground. Today weddings and celebrations can be held within the vault.

Another good view was the trompe l’oeil artistry on the rear of the Flat Iron building, a competitor to New York’s building of the same name.

But what of those big events attracting visitors from far and wide? One lady from Washington DC who was on our walking tour had travelled to Toronto to take part in the Carnival. She had travelled alone, and brought her costume with her. She told us how she had used an app to arrange to meet other solo travellers who had all glammed up, jumped into an Uber, and managed to get into the parade. “This was hard work,” she told us. “The Carnival paraded along four miles of the lakeside. That was a lot of non-stop dancing in the heat. I was exhausted after two miles.” While we did not get photographs of the Carnival some willing ladies posed for a couple of images of their head and leg decoration after the event.

And what of the Blue Jays game? To delighted Toronto fans the team won 4-1 against the Detroit Tigers, but I bet it was not as exciting as England’s win in the UEFA Women’s football final at Wembley.

Copyright: Words and photos Sue Barnard 2022

After our aborted attempt to go to the Northwest Passage back in August 2018 because our ship hit the rocks within 24 hours (the story can be found in our early posts on this website), we are leaving for Toronto this week to start our latest attempt, make the journey and tick that off our bucklist.

This time we are sailing with Quark Expeditions on its new ship, Ultramarine, which will be a massive upgrade from the old Russian cold war ships that were used by One Ocean in our 2018 attempt. We have travelled with Quark Expeditions before to Antarctica in 2012 and from Kangerlussuaq across the Davis Strait to the Hudson Bay in 2014, both voyages being fantastic memorable experiences. The voyage is entitled “Northwest Passage: In the footsteps of Franklin” and we board the ship in Kangerlussuaq, Greenland after a charter flight from Toronto.

The trip, like the 2018 one, is primarily historical and follows in the footsteps of the ill-fated voyage of Sir John Franklin which left Greenhithe, England in 1845 tasked with finding a way across the top of Canada, referred to as the “Northwest Passage”. Franklin and his men sailed in two ships, HMS Erebus and HMS Terror, and overwintered on the ice for two winters before they abandoned the ships. Franklin had already died by this time and the crew tried to hike back to the nearest civilisation via the Back River. All 129 perished hundreds of miles from the nearest civilisation.

We hope to see the graves of three of the Franklin crew who died in 1845/6 on Beechey Island as well as other artefacts left over 170 years ago. As you would imagine and even with climate change, the window for this trip is very short and there is normally only a couple of months a year when the ship can navigate this area, so expeditions are always subject to weather and ice conditions. This means that the route can change at a moment’s notice if the ship’s captain feels that safety is compromised.

In addition to the historical side of the trip, we will also visit remote Inuit communities and see the fantastic wildlife such as polar bears, walruses, whales and countless species of birds.

Some polar bears we saw in the Hudson Bay in 2014

Our posts on this trip will be more sporadic as we will be out of good wifi range for much of the trip but updates will follow when better communication allows. We look forward to you joining us on this very chilly trip.

Copyright: Words and photos John Cruse 2022 (apart from the Quark Expeditions route map above)

So there we were whizzing down a steep hill with sharp hairpin bends at exilerating speed in Sweet Pea, an arm each waving haplessly out of the window. Great excitement. It was just like an illustration in a children’s storybook. This was the life. A very different driving experience to Route 66 along which we had recently travelled. And then strangely everything stopped!

I woke up! We might be in the UK now but my sleeping head was obviously back with Sweet Pea this morning.

What a different type of holiday this was, made especially so by our historic cars; organiser and patient counsellor Neil; the calm and untiring Toncho, who I am sure worked in the dead of night as the cars were always spic and span the following morning; and our fun loving travelling companions Pauline, David, Suzanne and John.

But what of the Bulgaria experience? The food was always plentiful and we particularly liked the traditional Shopska salads with colours to reflect the national flag including cucumber, flavourful tomatoes (I had forgotten how tasty they can be), onions, olives, grated carrot, and a topping of tasty white cheese. I must try that recipe at home. Also moreish was the unusual crispy, but not fatty, cornflake-covered fried chicken pieces.

The people were friendly, although I soon realised that no ALWAYS means no. Don’t try to bargain. Flexibility does not seem to be a characteristic they enjoy. But I never got to grips with the head shaking and nodding which had the opposite meaning to our tradition. We found this in the more rural areas than the cities. The shaking of the head when ordering food was particularly odd. “Do you have cornflake-covered chicken legs,” got a shake of the head, but no alternative suggestion made, until I realised that the shake of the head was a ‘yes’. Mind you, if someone asked me if I had cornflake-covered chicken legs I think I would be a little surprised, if not offended.

And then there’s the driving. Well what can I say? I had my foot on the floor as if to action the brake downhill on many occasions even though I was not driving. Then there was the procedure. Fuel on, choke out and back in IMMEDIATELY commanded the Smooth Talking Neil. What about the gears? Ah reversed H set-up for this 2-stroke engine, and to get to first you MUST go into second first… or was that first second?

And NEVER forget lights on… it’s the law.

Some intrigued passers-by asked if we had air conditioning in this hot weather. We said yes, we just open the windows.

We learned a new hand jester: holding one’s hand out of the window and clenching and opening our fingers like a duck’s beak. What was the purpose of that? Well, to tell the Trabie driver behind that he still had his non-automatic indicators on. Strange thing that all females on the trip decided not to drive the Trabies… there must be a reason for that.

I shall also not forget my coordinates, especially when I go to the supermarket in future. These details, provided at least twice daily by STN took us precisely to our next port of call and not a short distance away as some maps can direct.

And how useful was WhatsApp (mobile data is all part of many UK packages in the EU) to alert our fellow travellers, not only that we had broken down (the car that is and not ourselves) but we could also send our coordinates to our rescue team – STN and Toncho.

I shall also not forget Sweet Pea’s wonky steering wheel, fitted quirkily at an angle, which managed to hide the blinking (interpret that how you wish) indicator light. But on the plus side John has built up his muscles like Rambo, having pulled the powerless steering wheel around the hairpin bends of Bulgaria for 600 kilometres (we’re metric in Bulgaria, but some 400 miles in English).

And we will surely not forget the laughs and jokes from our fellow travellers and STN; as well as our mechanic-on-call Toncho’s lower body sticking out from underneath our car on a daily basis.

So we say our fond farewells to such a different and memorable experience of a trip. Which leaves me thinking. Perhaps I should have tried out that reverse H gearbox, even for just one trip around the car park. Maybe on another occasion.

Copyright: Words and photos Sue Barnard 2022

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And here our tour draws to an end. Now with just two Trabies remaining we headed back to Sofia, some 100 miles and two hours drive to where we first started – a retail park near the airport.

We said our fond fairwells to Neil and Toncho, and our fellow passengers with discussions about a possible reunion around the Baltics with different vehicles.

Unfortunately, the new E10 petrol formulation does not suit classic cars such as the Trabants. To put it bluntly, it rots their guts. While some of its rubber parts can be replaced with current substitutes, the corrosion of its mechanical parts is a different story. Many of these are no longer available and it would be far too costly to have modern alternatives made.

So sadly, this appears to be the final tour of the Trabies, and after waiting three years to join the trip due to the Covid restrictions, we were so lucky to be a part of it. We hope that the Trabants can be resurrected, but deep down in our hearts we think that is not likely.

Gone but not forgotten by our group and many others over the years who were able to experience the drive in these classic cars and the Bulgarian sites and sights they took us to. Our thanks to Neil and Toncho who made it happen just one more time.

Copyright: Words and photos (unless otherwise stated) Sue Barnard 2022

This was to be our final day of touring, and STN (Smooth Talking Neil) was taking no chances with us over-revving the engines when removing the Trabies from the underground car park. I don’t blame him. You should see the tight manoeuvres to reverse out of the parking space and the steep exit.

Sweet Pea was now fully recovered and we were heading to Plovdiv, in the boiling heat. We were wilting, but this time Sweet Pea was not.

For our first stop we headed to the spa town of Hisarya situated in central Bulgaria and ideally placed just 25 miles from Plovdiv. The town is one of the oldest and most popular balneological centres in Bulgaria…

Well that’s a term we don’t hear much of (if ever). Actually, before you rush to look up the word, as I know you will, it means the study of medicinal springs and the therapeutic effects of bathing in them. So there you have it.

Hisarya is famous for its healing mineral waters: 16 natural mineral springs and 6 drilled mineral water wells. Evidence of occupation dates back to the 5th century BC, and by the 4th and 3rd centuries BC those Thracians had moved into the region. But the settlement’s heyday was during the Roman era. In 293, Emperor Diocletian declared it a town and this marked the beginning of the construction of massive fortification walls, public buildings, baths and streets.

What makes this town particularly interesting is that the Roman ruins are blended into current day building. There is a central square with mineral water spring which was popular with the residents on this hot day, plus fountains and shaded cafes to relax in.

Nearby was a small, but informative archaeological museum, whose staff were happy to stay open during their lunchtime so that we could make a quick visit. Inside there were artefacts from various digs and detailed information about a collection of giant crystals donated by a Bulgarian whose intention was to save them from destruction for others to admire their natural beauty. It is claimed to be one of two such collections of giant crystals in the world.

It was then time to move on to Plovdiv. But sadly when returning to our cars we faced some very sad news… the death of one of our group. We were all in mourning.

It proved all too much for Blue Bayou. Perhaps it was the extreme heat of around 35 degrees, or perhaps she had just had enough. Slowly she was pushed onto the back of Toncho’s pick-up truck. The engine had given up. It seems that the new E10 petrol just does not suit these old classics. We are all hoping she will be resurrected, but this is not known at present. Maybe Fudge who never did Budge will give her a helping hand.

We headed to Plovdiv which is surrounded by the hills of southern Bulgaria. There are modern parts of the town, but several ancient sites based within the old town.

We managed to climb up the very steep cobbled roads in the intense heat to reach the Roman theatre of Philippopolis and the Forum. Much more could be done to provide visitor information at these sites and despite there being a lot of tourists in the town, the sites were almost empty.

Today the Philippopolis, which once accommodated 6,000 people, is used as a venue for opera and concerts. It dates from the 1st century and is considered one of the world’s best preserved ancient Roman theatres, but is now covered in part by staging and chairs. The theatre is semi-circular in shape with steep marble seating. The site lay undiscovered for many years until the 1970s when a landslide led to archeologists excavating the area.

The Roman Forum that we visited was once a marketplace where merchants exchanged grain, wood and honey for pottery and bronze items. Today it is a shadow of its former self.

Copyright: Words and photos Sue Barnard 2022

Oh as if we hadn’t been spoiled enough. STN (Smooth talking Neil) had arranged a very special day for us, travelling from Tryavna to Kazanlak to see some most interesting historical sites that larger vehicles could never reach.

Our focus today related to the Communist era, but before we made headway there was another surprise. Toncho had replaced our brake master cylinder and made a few tweaks, and all the hard work carried out while we relaxed and chatted over breakfast made a positive difference. Sweet Pea had got over her/his/its (we must keep on trend with these matters) troubles and was in fine fettle even on the most steep roads which had previously given gyp.

We were heading up (and down) the many steep hills with hairpin bends aplenty. Sweet Pea had not minded the downhill parts (Neil insisted we gave the Trabies a break by keeping off the brakes downhill as much as possible) but until the latest mechanical changes, didn’t like the uphills. Well who does?

So on to our first stop, the Shipka Monument of Freedom. This tall tower was built to commemorate the fall of 500 years of Ottoman occupation in Bulgaria. At the Shipka peak 5,000 Russian soldiers and 2,500 Bulgarian volunteers (called Opalchentsi) fought and defeated an estimated 40,000 Ottoman troops in 1877. The liberation is celebrated on 3 March each year. The 32 metre tall tower today is a museum.

We then jumped into Neil’s wagon for our next memorable stop… and there was a reason. We were heading up, up and up an extremely pot-holed small road. It was difficult to drive a car along this journey, let alone a coach (or our Trabies). Hence, few groups reach here, although bikers like the challenge. We spoke to several who were enjoying it as part of their long-distance journeys across Europe.

The place we were heading for was Buzludzha, a Communist conference centre high up in the mountains. If this didn’t reflect power over the vast landscape, nothing would. The building was something out of the space age.

Architect George Stoilov was approached in 1961 to produce a monument to mark 70 years since the founding of the Bulgarian Social Democratic Workers Party, later known as the Bulgarian Communist Party. His plans were not used at the time, but he was approached again some years later.

Stoilov made changes to his original plans, which were accepted. He was influenced by the Brutalist style of architecture and by Le Corbusier, amongst others. He wanted to produce a timeless monument, including ancient and futuristic concepts. The, currently dilapidated, monument is certainly impressive and must have been breath-taking in its heyday, if not because of the steep steps to reach it.

Today it is in a very poor state with graffiti, broken glass, and evidence of trophy hunters, but images of the original interior displayed outside the building show outstanding workmanship including many mosaics. Access is not possible. The architect would have been horrified to see it in this state. There is something about the building’s magnificence (whatever its history) that screams “save me”.

Much debate has been carried out about whether it should be demolished (because of what it stood for), or if it should be renovated because of its architectural significance. Without living its history, I am for the latter. It is such a magnificent building that why not turn it into something positive?

According to signs at the site, renovation is planned, sponsored by the Getty Foundation and ICOMOS (the International Council on Monuments and Sites) which works to save historic buildings of significance. Some people we spoke to still have their doubts as to whether work will ever go ahead, but this building is of such architectural importance alone I hope so.

Then, reunited with our Trabies, we headed down and down and down to Kazanlak at the foot of the Balkan mountain range, and within the Valley of the Roses. This town is at the centre of rose oil extraction in Bulgaria and, most unusually, it has a museum dedicated to the flower and rose oil production.

The museum is so unique John and I just had to visit. It is located in a circular building. Visitors perambulate around the ground floor where information boards and historic equipment are located, finishing with a walk around the central garden, of roses of course. Within the building there is a constant smell of rose oil.

The displays provided information about roses and the oil from ancient times. Even Ovid, Vergil and Cicero are said to have praised the fragrance and beauty of the rose. Bulgaria, today, is one of the biggest producers of rose oil. Kazanlak lies within the Valley of the Roses, an area 95 miles long by 7 miles wide, south of the Balkan mountains.

The quality of rose oil depends on the combination of climate and soil, making Kazanlak particularly suitable. Just one kilogram of rose oil is produced from up to 3,500 petals of Rose Damascena.

And as if to complete our most enjoyable journey Sweet Pea was coming up roses having completed our first day with no hysterics. Sweet.

Copyright: Words and photos Sue Barnard 2022

The historic town of Veliko Tarnova was an overnight base and we had an ideal position with our hotel rooms overlooking the extensive fortress of Tsarevets. We took the opportunity in the morning to hike up the rather steep site, a perfectly-placed location for the original occupants being more than 200 metres above sea level with vast views in all directions, allowing early detection of enemy attack.

Evidence of occupation dates back to the 2nd century BC, but from the 4th century AD onwards an extensive site was gradually developed. This included 3-metre high city walls with three gates and a drawbridge. More recent studies estimate the complex had 400 dwellings, 22 churches and four monasteries within those walls. The steep site is not for those delicate underfoot. Plenty of trip hazards here, but the views and gaining an appreciation of those who built, climbed up and lived within the site was worth it.

Then it was time to head onwards towards our next evening destination, Tryavna in central Bulgaria. We were beginning to realise that dear little Sweet Pea had a bit of an aversion to hills – whether steep or not so steep. She/he/it seems to be getting a bit precious in my mind.

As we struggled up a hill she/he/it was having none of it, and ground to a halt once again. We were heading for breakdown number three (not sure whether that was the car or us). Our guide and mechanic were soon on hand. I am getting the impression that we are becoming more familiar with the back ends of these two saviours rather than their top ends.

A slight adjustment to the new brakes which were expanding in the heat and still not bedded in, and we were on the road again.

Neil obviously had our karma in mind when he made an impromptu recommendation. Is there nothing this guy doesn’t think of? I told you he was smooth talking. “How about a bit of relaxation and lunch at a yoga retreat,” he suggested. “Done,” we all replied immediately and not soon after we landed on Rowena’s doorstep… well actually houses and barns.

The retreat was run by a British lady who had decided at a young age to buy a rundown property and renovate it. In fact, she now has a few buildings and barns in which she offers accommodation for those who want to retreat from the wider world for a while… or longer. Yoga sessions are offered several times daily. Some people choose the location as a ‘work-from-home’ alternative (familiarly known as ‘digital nomads’, I rather like that term), and can be seen working away on their laptops.

Having tucked into a healthy vegetarian lunch, one resident asked us if we would like to visit a dilapidated primary school, vacated in 1997. I jumped at the chance. Where else would you get an opportunity like this?

It is a sad fact that many small villages are becoming ghost towns. As the elderly pass away their offspring and others do not necessarily want to move in, there is little employment for them, and remember the population is in decline. This area around Gabrovo has faced the same situation, but the setting up of the yoga retreat has brought with it more occupants and a regular flow of visitors – all a benefit for the village.

Then we were on our way again, to Tryavna, a pretty town with cobbled streets, many independant shops and plenty of history – those Thracians made it to this area too. The architecture is very attractive, as is the pretty Kivgireniyat bridge at the town centre.

A nice touch for locals and visitors was a plentiful photographic display in the town centre of people dressed in their traditional Bulgarian costumes and featured in their home towns with a recognisable view in the background. We are finding that the Bulgarian people are proud of their history and their traditions.

Copyright: Words and photos Sue Barnard 2022