Time to complete the Bucket List

We had an early start for our trip to St Kilda as the boat (Kilda Cruises) left at 7.30am from the pier at Leverburgh which was a short drive from our accommodation. It was scheduled to return a 7.30 pm and as there were no facilities on the boat, or at St Kilda, we had to take our own lunch including some ginger for seasickness as it could be very rough.

The good news as we reached the pier was that the weather was good so we were going to the St Kilda Archipelago.

The St Kilda Archipelago is an isolated group of islands and is all that remains above the sea of a large volcano thought to have been active about 60 million years ago. The underlying rocks – granite, gabbro and dolerite – have been eroded by ice, rain and the sea to form an impressive coastline of four main islands and offshore stacs. Hirta boast the highest sea cliff in the British Isles at Conachair (376m), while Stac An Armin (191m) is the highest sea stac.

It is believed that St Kilda was settled by humans between four and five thousand years ago. St Kilda’s distance of 41 miles from the Outer Hebrides allowed for the development of a unique style of self-sufficient island life that remained much preserved until the archipelago’s eventual abandonment in 1930.

There are traces of Neolithic sites and of Norse presence prior to the settlement of the Gaelic speaking Scots. At its peak the population approached 200 people who carved out a life in this remote place.

The St Kildan’s diet was not fish, as one might expect, as the seas were too treacherous. Instead they survived on seabirds – gannets and fulmars mostly – which they caught and used for food and many other things. The meat was stored, the eggs eaten, the oil was used as fuel for lamps and the feathers were sold to the few visitors that came to the islands. The St Kildans were very economical and used the birds beaks for brooch-pins, the bones for needles and the gannet skins were fashioned into shoes.

In 1697, the Scottish writer Martin Martin, who wrote about the Western Isles, visited and found a vibrant community who he described as “…much happier than the generality of mankind…”. However, life was hard and became even harder as the population declined and contact with the outside world increased in the 19th and 20th centuries.

Disease caused many deaths on the island and stories of a better and easier life on the mainland, Australia and Canada encouraged many to leave. With fewer able-bodied people, the life for those who stayed became harder. Towards the end of the 1920s, the crops failed several times and the islanders nearly starved to death. The decision to evacuate was made and on the 29th August 1930 the remaining 36 islanders were removed to the Scottish mainland.

The islands are now owned by the National Trust for Scotland and are managed in partnership with the Ministry of Defence who lease land for an important radar tracking station. Currently home only to a few members of the defence and conservation communities, St Kilda welcomes many visitors throughout the year who are drawn to the islands for the wonderful wildlife and fascinating history.

The Kirk (church) was built in the late 1820s and has a schoolroom attached which was built in 1898. The Factor’s house was built in the 1860s. The Factor’s job was to represent the Laird and visit each summer to collect the rent.

The islanders lived in Blackhouses built in the 1830s, but 16 improved cottages were built around 1860 after a gale which resulted in a lot of damage. The improved houses were occupied until the evacuation. Six have been re-roofed and are used by the National Trust for Scotland.

One of the re-roofed houses is now a small museum and it is interesting to note that the Main Street, when inhabited, had a post office. I wonder how long it took for the post to be taken to the mainland for delivery as visitors were few and far between.

The islands also have First World War history. In 1918 a German U-Boat shelled the village to destroy a radio mast. A gun and ammunition store were installed and the gun is still there, although a bit rusty.

The extreme isolation of St Kilda means that a limited range of plants and animals exist here. The St Kilda wren lives amongst the ruins of Hirta or on the steep cliffs and is larger than its mainland relative. The St Kilda field mouse still thrives and is nearly twice as big as the mainland mice.

A flock of primitive sheep, found nowhere else in the world, survived on the island of Soay and after the evacuation some were transferred to Hirta where they are completely wild.

The other wildlife that are on and around the islands and stacs are the seabirds. The islands have one of the world’s largest gannet colonies, on Boreray; the oldest and largest colony of Fulmars in Britain; and the biggest colony of Puffins in Britain. These have presumably increased since the islands have been evacuated and the birds are not being used for food.

On our way back to Leverburgh, the boat sailed around the other islands and stacs where one could see another breed of sheep that were left when the islands were evacuated and are also living wild.

The St Kilda archipelago is definitely worth a visit if you are in the Leverburgh area but you need to book in advance, be lucky with the weather and as advised by Kilda Cruises, allow two days for the trip, just in case the weather is bad on the intended day.

Words and photos: Copyright John Cruse 2024

We left the Royal Hotel to drive to our next accommodation on the Isle of Harris on a Sunday morning.

If you are intending to travel in the Outer Hebrides you need to be aware that on a Sunday most businesses are closed and there is no public transport. Therefore, if you need to purchase supplies or refuel the car it has to be done on another day. There is a strong tradition of Christian church-going on the islands with Church of Scotland and Free Presbyterian Church being predominant. If you intend to eat out you will need to find one of the restaurants that does open and it is best to book a table, as the few that are open, are very busy particularly in the holiday season.

Our first visit on the way to our next accommodation was the Eilean Glas Lighthouse that is on the Island of Scalpay, North Harris.

In 1787 the original Northern Lighthouse Trustees approached Captain Alexander McLeod of Harris, the owner of Scalpay, to request that a beacon be erected on the island. The Northern Lighthouse Trustees preferred construction team was not available as they were building the Mull of Kintyre Lighthouse. McLeod’s own men independently started the construction in 1787, laid the foundations and raised the tower walls to seven feet. In 1788 the Trustees’ engineer, Thomas Smith, found that McLeod’s men had built the tower 4 feet greater in circumference than was planned. To save time and cost, they continued on the larger scale and the construction was completed in 1788. The lighting equipment was fitted in 1789 and the Lighthouse was first lit on 10 October 1789 with its first keeper, Alexander Reid, in situ.

The current lighthouse was erected under the supervision of Robert Stevenson in 1824 and the lightroom was raised to 25 feet above the ground level bringing it to an elevation of 73 feet above sea level. In 1907 a fog signal was installed and the light was changed to one with a flashing character, although the fog signal was discontinued in 1987. In 2019, the lighthouse underwent a major refurbishment and upgrade with LED optics and a system that automatically makes a telephone call to the Northern Lighthouse Board headquarters to report faults in the event of failure of the light. Things have certainly changed from the days of the first lighthouse keeper.

We then drove to our next accommodation near Leverburgh, South Harris through the main town on Harris, being Tarbert, and passing through places like Nisabost Beach.

We had been told that the Outer Hebrides could have four seasons in one day but so far we had been lucky with the weather. The next day we had booked a trip to the St Kilda Archipelago, a World Heritage Site and National Nature Reserve, that lies 41 miles off the west coast of Benbecula in the Atlantic Ocean. We had been advised that a trip to St Kilda could easily fail due to the weather particularly the rough seas. We crossed everything for good weather and calm seas on the next day.

Words and photos: Copyright John Cruse 2024

We made our way east of Stornoway to see one of the most important archaeological sites on the Isle of Lewis. This is St Columba’s Church UI (Eaglais na h-Aoidhe in Gaelic) which is believed to be the main church in the medieval period.

Archaeological finds showed that the area around the church had been settled by farming people in the Neolithic period up to 6000 years ago. Evidence of later occupation close to the church was found in 1937 when the remains of a small late Iron Age or early medieval stone building with a hearth on an earth floor and traces of iron objects were uncovered.

Under the Norse kings and later, until the 14th century as part of Scotland, Lewis was held by the Nicolsons who had strongholds at Flesherin and Stornoway. They may be responsible for the building of an early church on the site, a fragment of which is retained, embedded in the north wall of the building.

The Macleod dynasty, reputedly descended from Leod, a Norseman, obtained control of Lewes through marriage to a daughter of Torquil Nicolson, the last of the Nicolson chiefs. Torquil MacLeod was a son of this marriage. After the Treaty of Perth, when the islands became Scottish, they were first given by the King to the Earl of Ross and then to John, Lord of the Isles. Torquil MacLeod was confirmed as a vassal of the Lord of the Isles and probably died around 1380. The nave and chancel of the present church may have been built at the start of this period.

During the 14th century most of the Hebrides was brought together under a single Lordship. John of Islay was Lord of the Isles from 1354. The Lordship became virtually independent of the control of the Scottish Crown with Lewis continuing to the held by the MacLeods of Lewis (Siol Torcuil), the descendants of Torquil MacLeod.

This was a golden age of medieval society and Gaelic culture in the Western Isles. Justice was administered through the Council of the Isles and although warfare was a way of life, within the Lordship itself, peace was generally maintained.

The MacLeods of Lewis retained control of Lewis for 250 years or more with no fewer the 19 of their chiefs said to be buried at the church. There are two carved grave slabs commemorating Roderick MacLeod VII (died 1498) and his daughter, Margaret MacKinnon (died 1503).

We then returned to Lews Castle to have a look inside at the rooms and museum. When we were there the day before, it was late and the museum was closing for the night.

Lews Castle was completed in 1854 following Sir James Matheson’s purchase of the Isle of Lewis was taken over by Lord Leverhulme, of Lever Brothers/Unilever fame, when he bought the Isle of Lewis in 1918. In 1923, he gifted the Castle and grounds to the people of Stornoway. During the war, it was used as a naval hospital and latterly was the first home of the Lews Castle College until 1988. After many years of disrepair, the castle was renovated and now houses the museum, cafe and accommodation.

The Museum – Museum nan Eilean – is located in a purpose-built extension to Lews Castle and opened in 2016. The galleries look at the stories of the islands and islanders. Significant loans from the National Museums Scotland and the British Museum include the world-famous Lewis Chessmen.

The eleven medieval chess pieces were part of a large hoard buried on the Isle of Lewis. The hoard contained 93 gaming pieces including at least four chess sets as well as other games.

It is thought that the chess pieces were made in the late 12th century or early 13th century in Norway. Chess is a very old game originating in the Islamic world and by the medieval period its popularity had spread across Europe. It was believed that it became an important part of medieval society, a way of practicing and demonstrating skill and strategy in a war-like setting. Boards for playing the games have been found by archaeologists at medieval sites in Scotland including monasteries like Whithorn (in Dumfries and Galloway). At Lewis, the hoard also contained pieces for playing the game of tables, a game similar to backgammon.

The style of the carving links the chess pieces to Norway. There is a similar chess piece in Trondheim. The Lewis chess pieces are mostly made from walrus ivory but some are made from sperm whale teeth.

After another enjoyable day we returned to the Royal Hotel in anticipation of our moving on to the Isle of Harris the next day.

Words and photos: Copyright John Cruse 2024

To start our second day we headed west to Callanish (Calanais in Gaelic) to visit the Calanais Standing Stones. The standing stones are one of Scotland’s most magnificent and best preserved Neolithic monuments.

The Calanais Standing Stones are an extraordinary cross-shaped setting of stones erected 5,000 years ago. They predate the famous Stonehenge monument and are believed to have been an important place for ritual activity for 2,000 years.

It is not known why the standing stones at Calanais were erected but one theory is that they were a kind of astronomical observatory. As with many of these Neolithic monuments we will probably never be able to know what was in the mind of their builders.

Our next visit was to the Bostadh Iron Age Village on the island of Great Bernera. Bostadh means farm in Old Norse. The story of the site tells that during a severe storm in 1992, the stone walls of an ancient village were exposed that had lain hidden under the sand dunes of Bosta Beach for hundreds of years.

In 1996, the site was excavated to reveal a well-preserved settlement of houses that dated back to the Late Iron Age (or Pictish Age) of 400-800AD. Located in a small valley with streams, a beach and rich fishing waters it would have made a perfect home for these early people.

The excavation was recorded in detail and the footprint of the village was laid out. However, the vulnerable structures themselves could not be preserved due to the process of erosion and sand build up. Therefore, they again lay underneath the sand and a life-size construction of a period home was made as we see in the photos above.

We then drove back to Stornoway for a visit to Lews Castle that sat on the other side of the water from our hotel.

In 1844 wealthy businessman James Matheson, a Scottish Opium Trader and co-founder with William Jardine of the Hong Kong based trading conglomerate Jardine Matheson & Co, bought the Island of Lewis for more than £190,000 from the bankrupt estate of the Mackenzies of Seaforth. Shortly afterwards he demolished Seaforth Lodge, the dilapidated home of the Mackenzies, taking on Glasgow architect Charles Wilson to design him a magnificent new island base – Lews Castle. A building this grand needed grounds to match and Matheson completely reshaped the landscape around his new home.

Matheson funded his grand scheme with a fortune that he had amassed following the first Opium War with China. To expand his business interests he had helped to persuade the British Government to wage war on China which had rejected proposals to legalise opium as it had become a problem for their people. The British Government used its naval power to defeat the Chinese in the first Opium War of 1839-42. This enable Matheson to expand his business empire into mainland China.

That said, Matheson provided employment, funded famine relief and engaged in many other social and economic projects to the benefit of the islands community, spending some £320,000 in 1850 (roughly £36 million today)

Lews Castle these days provides luxury accommodation, is a wedding venue, has a museum, cafe and shops and one can stroll around the extensive gardens.

After a short walk back to our hotel, we again visited the Boatshed restaurant, part of the Royal Hotel, for an excellent dinner.

Words and photos: Copyright John Cruse 2024

We arrived in Stornoway about 9.30pm and drove less than five minutes to our accommodation, the Royal Hotel that faces the harbour with Lews Castle on the other side of the water.

Our first day dawned and we planned to go north to visit the Port of Ness (Port Nis, in Gaelic) and Butt of Lewis lighthouse at Lewis’s most northerly point. The plan was to then come back south visiting places of interest such as the famous, Blackhouses.

There are not many roads on the Islands so getting lost should not be an issue even if you are not using some form of satnav. There are many road signs which are in Gaelic with English underneath. The many Gaelic speakers on the Islands keep the language alive, although they also speak English so one does not encounter any issues when out and about.

Port Ness is a small community with a harbour and because it faces into ‘The Minch’ (the sea that separates the Islands from the mainland) at the very north of the Hebrides, its small harbour has been designed to deal with the worst storms.

In autumn, the men of Ness still make their traditional journey to Sula Sgeir to capture young gannets, a tradition that is believed started before 1549 when the gannets were collected for food. Sula Sgeir is now uninhabited, lies 70 kilometres north of Lewis and is one of the most remote islands of the British Isles. We didn’t see any gannet on the menu so perhaps the trip to Sula Sgeir is purely symbolic these days.

A short way from the Port is the Butt of Lewis lighthouse that has been mentioned in the Guinness Book of Records as the windiest place in the UK.

The lighthouse was built between 1859 and 1862 by David and Thomas Stevenson on the cliffs, some of which reach 80 feet high. The Stevenson family’s involvement in lighthouse engineering began with Robert Stevenson whose grandson was the author, Robert Louis Stevenson known for works such as Kidnapped, Treasure Island and the Strange Case of Dr Jekyll and Mr Hyde. The cliffs comprise ancient rocks known as Lewisian gneiss which date back between 2.6 billion and 1.6 billion years. We were lucky that the wind was benign on the day we visited so our experience of the windiest place in the UK was positive.

We then returned south and visited the famous Blackhouse at Arnol. We understood that this particular house was still being lived in up to the 1960s when the occupants were moved across the road to a small conventional style house. For hundreds of years people were living with their livestock in Blackhouses which had advantages as it made the dwelling warmer and meant fewer buildings were needed.

For authenticity, the peat fire was burning during our visit and you can see from the pictures that the smoke from the peat fire must have been a real health hazard. We understand that the fire was going all of the time so living with that every day and the animals in close proximity must have made the environment of the Blackhouse challenging.

That said, as there was no chimney, the smoke from the peat fire rose up into the thatch of the roof and killed bugs. It also made the smoke-laden thatch a good source of fertiliser for the fields.

We then visited the Gearrannan Blackhouse Village in the Carloway district which is a costal crofting village. Since 1989, the Garenin Trust has painstakingly restored the once-derelict properties and croft land to recreate an authentic settlement. Visitors can stay in the properties overnight on a self-catering basis.

Some of the properties in the village are open to the day visitor so that they can see the different interiors as well as some demonstrations of traditional crafts such as weaving the famous Harris tweed.

We then moved on the short distance to the Dun Carloway Broch. Brochs are among Scotland’s most impressive prehistoric buildings and these stone roundhouses date from about 2,300 to 1,900 years ago, and are found mainly in north and west Scotland. Probably built to reflect the prestige and status of their inhabitants, brochs were primarily dwelling-places for the principal family in the area. They would have provided some protection against sporadic raiding, but were not purely defensive structures.

After a full day of blackhouses and brochs we returned to the Royal Hotel, that just happened to have one of the best restaurants in Stornoway, for sustenance and a good night’s sleep.

Word and photos: Copyright John Cruse 2024

Having travelled on many trips to Scotland over the years – including Orkney, Shetland and the Inner Hebrides – the Outer Hebrides, or Western Isles as they are alternatively known, was the last part of Scotland that we had not had the pleasure to visit.

The Outer Hebrides are made up of many inhabited and uninhabited islands, the principal ones being Lewis, Harris, Uists, Benbecula and Barra. Our intention was to drive up to Ullapool on the west coast of Scotland and take the ferry across to Stornoway on the Isle of Lewis to start our trip. This was a drive of 636 miles with an estimated drive time of around 11 hours, so we decided to make a stop just outside of Glasgow for the night, at Motherwell which was a mere 400 miles.

The drive to Motherwell was virtually all on the motorway but from Motherwell to Ullapool the roads were very good, but mainly single lanes so the last 200 miles were slower. Part of the route we took from Inverness was on the NC500 – the 516 mile scenic route that goes around the North Coast of Scotland. The NC500 is a nice trip to make as it takes one to parts of Scotland not normally visited by most tourists. We made this trip many years ago before it became the tourist event it is now.

After reaching Ullapool we caught the ferry for the voyage across to Stornoway which takes circa 2hr 40 minutes. Before travelling we had engaged a local travel agent in Stornoway to book us accommodation in the Outer Hebrides as this is limited and in the peak season can be difficult to find. The other peculiarity that travellers to the Outer Hebrides need to be aware of is that, on a Sunday, most shops, petrol stations and restaurants close all day, so if you want to eat you need to book in advance in the few restaurants that do open. It was just like the rest of the UK used to be in the 1950s. Also there is no public transport on a Sunday.

The structure of our trip was to start on the Isle of Lewis and drive down the islands, visiting various historical and cultural sites including the World Heritage Site, St Kilda (Hirta), finishing on the Isle of Barra where we would get the ferry from Castlebay back to Oban on the mainland of Scotland.

Words and photos: Copyright John Cruse 2024. Map courtesy of d-maps.com

And so our trip was almost at an end. Having left the delights and hospitality of Robinson Crusoe Island we had a 400-mile sailing to Valparaiso in Chile, taking around a day and a half. 

We had visited this area of Chile 22 years ago, so took the opportunity to take things a little easier, but not too much. Valparaiso and the nearby Santiago (where we were staying) are not the safest of places to visit and even our local guides were wary where they took us.

Valparaiso, our docking point, is one of Chile’s most important and busy Pacific Ocean seaports. It has a long history, and away from the bustling coastline with its huge stacks of containers and transporting lorries, features an historic quarter which was granted UNESCO status in 2003. It also has a labyrinth of cobbled alleys and colourful buildings. But with time at a premium this was not where we were heading.

Instead, it was over to Santiago, an equally busy area and the country’s capital some 70 miles away. This town was founded in the 1500s by Spanish conquistador Pedro de Valdivia and too features attractive architecture, winding streets, and very busy areas. An estimated 40% of Chile’s population live here.

With the help of a Spanish guide, speaking through a broken-English interpreter (not easy), we took the opportunity of a whistle-stop tour of Santiago. Making things a little more difficult was the fact that our guiding duo was wary of us even getting out of the vehicle (for safety reasons). Nonetheless, we did visit the cathedral and had a very quick walkabout, viewing the Palacio de La Moneda (the President’s palace).

On the edge of the town we visited the beautiful garden of Laguna de las Aves – a relaxing escape from the busyness of the centre, which we were not used to after three weeks of little-populated islands.

A trip we did manage on our own via the use of taxis, was to a most delightful craft area, the Centro Artesanal Los Dominicos.

This land had been donated to the Order of the Dominican Fathers of Recoleta in the 1800s by an Irish citizen living in Chile. Although his name wasn’t stated I suspect it to be Anthony Fahy, a Dominican priest, chaplain and keen supporter for 27 years of Irish immigrants who struggled with the Spanish language.

Since 1983 part of this land has been set aside for the purpose of encouraging artisans to make their creations in view of the public and to subsequently sell them. It was a delight to actually see them at work and admire their skills, and was a far cry from viewing the usual imports. There were more than 100 workshops and small eating places. 

And so to some overall thoughts of our trip across the South Pacific.

This had been an incredible opportunity, giving us the chance to visit so many islands – both inhabited and uninhabited. We experienced and were able to compare so many cultures – the French Polynesians with their genuine warm welcomes, floral garlands, food and hospitality; the rather British approach on Pitcairn; the histories and mysteries of Easter Island; and the stories within Juan Fernández Archipelago all of which gave us such contrasts. Then there were the birders themselves and viewing their passion for these winged creatures. And never to forget the experiences of landing on islands where few people had walked before over the decades or even centuries. 

This was such a rare chance and one we much appreciated. But we had to leave, in order that we could travel again. Next destination: South Korea.

Copyright: Words and Photos Sue Barnard 2022

I would have walked 500 miles yesterday to achieve the things we experienced on Alexander Selkirk Island, but that was yesterday! After today’s so called ‘moderate’ hike you have got to be joking. I’m exhausted. Long walks of discovery are now off my agenda! Up and up we climbed today, and then up some more.

Each morning the ship’s nicely-presented ‘Chronicle’ two-pager arrives under our cabin door. This provides us with the daily schedule and how to prepare. There were three options today: an uphill 3-hour strenuous walk (think I’ll give that a miss); a history walk around the town (interesting); or ‘a moderate nature and botany walk uphill to Plazoleta el Yunque, a 2.5 mile roundtrip. The latter sounded just my cup of tea. 

Before explaining what we did get to know about this island, I would just like to say, our steep walk upwards was never ending. I saw a peak in front of us, not realising that was where we were heading.

I read a notice along the way which said: “Easy access trail where one can appreciate diverse types of vegetation” – not if you’re gasping for breath. It continued: “It also has an internal circuit where native forest is predominant with examples of eucalyptus, ferns, gunnera, cinnamon trees, and (the highly invasive non-native Chilean wineberry) maqui.” 

I was almost on my knees when we reached a campsite. I was in no fit state to put up a tent even if I had wanted to. Here we discovered the internal (or infernal) circuitous boardwalk. It seemed the obvious route to take, but we had no idea where it was taking us. There weren’t any signs. Having struggled uphill, we walked round and round ducking under branches and watching our step on the slippery boards as we went. Eventually, we reached the campsite again… and, well what to do next but take the steep walk back down. 

However, it was not to end there. There were several other sites for us to see once we got back to our original landing point some hours later. Before I touch on those there is something important to say about Robinson Crusoe Island, as alluded to in the previous posting.

Remember the name Alexander Selkirk, the Scottish buccaneer? He actually arrived in 1703 on what was then known as Isla Más a Tierra, later named Robinson Crusoe Island. He never set foot on Más Afuera (later known as Alexander Selkirk Island).

His ship was the Cinque Ports. The story goes that, upon arrival at Isla Más a Tierra, he quarrelled with his captain Thomas Stradling, complaining the ship had a leaky bottom. He is said to have retorted that he would rather stay on the island than sail with the ship. The captain took him at his word, and left him there.

It is said that Selkirk remained on the island for almost five years until he was rescued by an English sea captain Woodes Rogers, who commented that he looked more rugged in animal skins than the island goats themselves. It is further said that the story inspired Daniel Defoe to write the book Robinson Crusoe, although that is based in the Caribbean and his character was marooned for 28 years.

It seems that Selkirk’s judgement was correct. The Cinque Ports ship later sunk off Colombia.

After that stage in its history, the island is considered to have been inhabited by pirates (and some, it seems, remain today. More about that later). There have also been reports of buried treasure dating back to the 1700s and hunters have scoured the island in search of this ever since.

By the 1800s the Juan Fernández archipelago came under the governance of Chile. In the 1900s the islands became a penal colony housing, particularly, political prisoners. In 1966, in an attempt to capitalise on the tale, the Chileans renamed Isla Más a Tierra as Robinson Crusoe Island thus raising (conveniently) the interests of passing tourists.

This volcanic island itself is considered to be up to four millions years old; is the largest island within the Juan Fernández archipelago; and has the largest population of around 1,200 people and rising, with 120 school children.

An important economic source for the community is fishing, especially for the spiny lobster. It is believed 98% of the fish are endemic, and of the 200-plus plant species found on the island, half are endangered or rare (including the cabbage tree). In addition, there are two highly invasive plants, the mora (wild blackberry) and the maqui (another berry-producing plant). These are taking over where native plants grow, and that in turn has a detrimental effect on the animals, birds and insects that live there.

Official steps are being taken to redress the balance and at the start of our climb we visited a seed bank where a gentleman showed us around. So far seeds from 70% of the plants have been collected – the aim is to achieve 100% – and to discover how best to propagate them.

It is hoped these actions will safeguard, particularly, the critically endangered firecrown hummingbird, which is native to this island only. The bird depends on some of the island’s equally-endangered plant species. We were lucky enough to see one with the help of the birders on board who were hunting amongst the trees.

The island also has a lot of history, especially from World War One. The German ship SS Dresden arrived at the island in 1915 trying to evade British warships. It was cornered by the HMS Glasgow and HMS Kent and the merchant cruiser Orama. The ships opened fire, and the captain subsequently scuttled her. The ship is at the bottom of the ocean, but what can be seen is a shell hole in the cliffs. We walked to that site and saw the hole. Nobody told us if the unexploded shell was still in the cliffs. It certainly didn’t look as if it had been removed, and who would attempt that?

Also to be seen are several caves near the shoreline. These housed political prisoners in the 1800s, and maybe it is possible Alexander Selkirk frequented them during his stay in the 1700s.

But a fitting end for our exhausting day, and what was almost the finale of our cruise of discovery, was a party held for us by the people of the island. We didn’t meet any Alexander Selkirk lookalikes but we did meet quite a few pirates, who were most welcoming and happy to share their booty.

Copyright: Words and photos Sue Barnard 2022

“I would walk 500 miles and I would walk 500 more,” as the Proclaimers and many others have sung since the 1980s. But I would sail 1530 nautical miles (about 1800 miles) from Easter Island to Alexander Selkirk Island to experience what we did today!

Alexander Selkirk Island (previously named Más Afuera) is part of the Juan Fernández archipelago, which also includes the Robinson Crusoe and Santa Clara islands.

Isla Alejandro Selkirk (as it is known to Chileans) is around 400 miles off the coast of Chile. It is just 7 miles long by 4 miles wide and is visually outstanding with its sharp volcanic peaks reaching up 5,500 feet above sea level. These peaks are most often covered in cloud, providing dampness which enables grass and some trees to grow. There is a small sandy landing point on the east side of the island.

Unfortunately we were prohibited from landing – and for good reason. There are a few Chilean people who live on the island during the lobster fishing season. These are mainly the lobster fishermen and their families. Medical support is limited and there isn’t a hospital. Consequently, if the residents caught any illnesses from curious and (let’s be honest) few tourists, especially in these times of Covid, this could have devastating effects.

Instead, never to be put off, we departed our ship and sailed around part of the island in our Zodiacs, which gave us sufficient insight of the inhospitable, as well as interesting, conditions.

But, before I expand on these, a little about the history. The Juan Fernández archipelago was discovered in the 1550s by Spanish navigator named (unsurprisingly) Juan Fernández. He received a grant to live in the archipelago and with this he stocked the islands with goats and pigs. He stayed for some years and when he left other visitors were rare because of the remoteness and difficult land.

Now, in case you are wondering who was Alexander Selkirk after whom the island is named, this is where it gets tricky. Stick with me on this. Selkirk was not of Chilean descent, but a Scottish buccaneer of the 1700s. What might be found puzzling is that he never came onto this island. Instead, he was marooned on the nearby Más a Tierra, which in 1966 was renamed Robinson Crusoe Island. “But why?”, I hear you ask. 

It was thought that Daniel Defoe based the character in his book of the same name on Alexander Selkirk. “But why?”, I hear you ask again. Well you will have to wait for the explanation in the next posting as we will soon be heading to Robinson Crusoe Island. 

What I can say, however, is that the reason Más Afuera became Alexander Selkirk Island, and Más a Tierra became Robinson Crusoe Island was that the Chileans decided in 1966 that a renaming of the islands would attract tourism. Ironic really when we were not given permission to land as tourists onto Alexander Selkirk island. 

So with that totally clear, onto our visit. The archipelago is an ecoregion (defined as such for its natural features). It has a very large amount of rare and endemic sea life, birds and plants.

Studies involving more than 200 hours of diving, plus drone flying, discovered how vast and important this region is. Thousands of urchins were seen around Alexander Selkirk Island, plus yellowtail jack fish, moray eels, 12 species of crab, starfish and two rare species of shark – the shorten mako and blue shark.

Research has discovered 285 native plant species in the archipelago, almost half are endemic. The trees that do exist tend to be tree ferns.

Amongst the birdlife are the pink-footed shearwater and two petrel seabird species – the Stejneger’s and Juan Fernández. Both are considered vulnerable and are the only known breeding populations in the world.

Also found in the region have been the endemic Juan Fernández fur seals. Some sources claim a census in 1797 estimated there was up to three million fur seals in the archipelago. However, numbers were devastated later due to pelt, blubber and meat hunting. It was not until 1965 that this seal species was rediscovered and since, due to marine protection, has grown significantly in numbers but not to the levels of the past.

Today, much of the fishing in the area is restricted and this includes the lobster, which is the main source of revenue for the local people. But, while much is being done to protect these waters, something that is difficult to hold back is the infiltration of microplastics. As if it is not bad enough that we see plastics in our ocean, the microplastics cannot be seen with the naked eye. Even in what looks like a pristine environment, research in these waters has found concerning levels of microplastics.

So on to our trip on the Zodiacs. This was around parts of the island where we viewed two wrecked ships, endemic seals that sat and looked at us or swam around inquisitively close by, ragged inhospitable cliffs, and local people in their fishing boats. 

However, the absolute highlight for me as our Zodiacs constantly bobbed up and down, and one for which I would have (possibly) walked those 500 miles, was an expected close-up view of an Ancanthaster starfish. These are most unusual and not what one would expect a starfish would look like. It is worth looking up, but from the images it seems there are many different species in a wide range of shapes and colours. Because of the wide variety it was difficult (well impossible) to identify just which my brown version with at least 20 tentacles was, but perhaps, just perhaps, it could have been an unidentified new species! Sadly, I guess I’ll never know, but what an opportunity today’s expedition provided.

Copyright: Words and photos Sue Barnard 2022

We never thought 22 years ago that we would be returning to Easter Island, but after 2,760 nautical miles (almost 3,200 land miles) from Tahiti, and 14 days, we had arrived. 

Our previous trip to Easter Island in 2000 was an extension to a tour we carried out travelling the length of Chile. Easter Island’s history had intrigued us over the years and having gone all the way to Chile, it seemed a sensible choice to take advantage of our location and fly there from the mainland.

The island is a province of Chile. One source I read said: ‘This is a small island in the South Pacific and one of the most isolated places in the world’. But hey, they had obviously not seen some of the islands we had just visited. They are – what I call – remote!

During our previous visit we toured the island with a delightful and knowledgeable female guide. We wondered if she was still guiding and if we would come across her again. But what were the chances?

The island is in the shape of a triangle, 14 miles long by 7 miles wide. Its highest point is almost 2,000 feet being Mount Terevaka. Easter Island is known for its statues, referred to locally as moai. They represent the heads and bodies of the islanders’ ancestors.

Evidence of human habitation is considered to date back to 600 AD. The island was later named by a Dutch expedition led by Jacob Roggeveen, who it is said arrived on Easter Sunday, calling it Paaseiland, or Easter Island. However, to the inhabitants it is Rapa Nui (or Great Rapa). Captain Cook landed here in 1774. 

Since 1935 the island has been a National Historic Monument, and almost 50% of the land is a national park which was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1995. Most of its residents are of Polynesian ancestry rather than, what might have been expected due to its governance, Chilean. However, Spanish is the main language spoken.

The land is volcanic and has in recent times suffered from increasing coastal erosion due to rising sea levels. Unlike on some islands we have passed through this isn’t so much an issue for breeding birds, but it has threatened the precious historic archeological sites containing the moai.

The island has around 1,000 statues, carved from the nearby volcanic rock. Some people have spent their lives examining them, one being Edmondo Edwards whose passion for archaeology started when he was 12 years old and as far back at 1957 his interest in Rapa Nui grew. We were privileged to have his daughter Alex as one of our Expedition Team, who was able to speak in depth about the archaeology and even the cosmos that surrounds it. 

The age of the moai is rather more recent that one might have thought, being dated between AD 1100 and 1650, depending on research sources. They are believed to represent ancestral chiefs descended from the gods. They held supernatural powers. They are scattered across the island, some erected on temple platforms (ahu) and along the coast mainly facing inland to watch over the people (as pictured above). They range from 8 feet in height and one is as much as 70 feet high. The latter was unfinished. Perhaps the creator thought it was not such a good idea after all, for it would have to be moved into position and erected.

We are fortunate that evidence remains of how these were created – initially in situ. The first step was to carve out the basic image in a horizontal position, from the local volcanic rock. A ‘keel’ (being attached un-carved rock under the back of the moai) would be left in place until the statue needed to be moved. This keel would then be carved away. 

The next step was to move the statue nearer to its resting place to then carve other parts of the body, including the head detail and the shoulders. Just how they moved them is still being debated, but suggestions are that they could have been shifted horizontally and lying on logs (sounds similar to Stonehenge), toppled vertically (bit risky, one could lose their head), or rolled on their sides down the hill (watch out for passers-by. Ah not a problem, no health and safety committee in those days).

As carving progressed – it is thought this amounted to an industry – finer details were carried out, such as the facial features. Statues that had not reached their final destination did not have eyes. These were carved when the statues were in place. In later versions coral was added to show the eyes more effectively and indicated the statue had vision. Some had the addition of top knots on their heads. These were carved from a red quarry stone.

Many moai can be seen mounted individually or laying down. Some may have fallen, but some may have never got to their final destination. Some were moved by a tsunami in 1960. This was a consequence of the largest earthquake recorded in Chile – having a magnitude of 9.5 on the Richter scale. No human life was lost on the island. Japanese support helped with the reconstruction of some of these valuable historic sites.

Also part of the island’s history was the Birdman Cult. This appears to have commenced after the moai culture. Birds were considered to represent a link between the living and the spirit world. They were the messengers of the gods.

The sooty tern, whose migratory arrival marked the spring equinox and a new beginning in the yearly cycle, was given prominence. A competition was held annually, with leaders of the island’s local clans selecting one man each to represent them.

These representatives would race to swim to a sharp peak at Ongora and climb its craggy surface to retrieve an egg of the sooty tern. The first chief to receive an intact egg from his representative birdman was given power over the island for the year.

Small wooden carvings are still made today of Tangata Manu (the Birdman, seen above). Petroglyphs also illustrate the birdman. Fortunately, the competition is no longer held. The treacherous conditions, which killed many who took part, would not have got the approval of health and safety committees today.

Also still to be seen are the ancient remains of several stone houses, known as hare paenga. The bases were designed in a canoe shape, with two levels inside. A lower level for sleeping and a raised level for cooking. Ovens made from earth contained stones used to retain heat for cooking.

So what of our guide of 2000? With a little time left on the island before we boarded our Zodiacs, we asked around if anybody knew her. “Yes, we do”, we heard with surprise. “She was here this morning!”, but sadly we had missed our one opportunity to see her.

I turned away, disappointed to know that she was still on the island but our chance encounter was not to be. Some beautiful red plants caught my eye and I wandered over to admire them.

Shortly after I heard John calling. “Sue, Sue, come here quickly.” I walked over with some speed, puzzled at the urgency. In front of me was our previous guide – just as friendly and excited as she was 22 years ago.

We showed her photographs we had taken back then of her eating shellfish straight off the rocks, which she still does today.

We heard about her packed life since then and shared with her what we had been up to on our trip. Then our brief time had come to an end and we had to depart. It was a great way to leave our second visit to Easter Island, carrying with us some wonderful final memories.

Copyright: Words and photos Sue Barnard 2022