Time to complete the Bucket List

The 9/11 Memorial Museum is one of those places in the world everyone should visit in an attempt to gain an insight into human nature and the good and evil mankind is capable of. Thankfully these places are few, and there is no need to name them here, but they all involve acts of atrocity.

Today we paid our respects to those who lost their lives during the 9/11 attack with a visit to the museum located in Manhattan’s financial district where once the twin towers of the World Trade Centre stood until that fateful day in 2001.

Little did we know we would spend five hours at the museum, the inside of which is spacious, but contains a huge amount of information. This could be gained via tours and audio guides, but on this occasion a go-it-alone approach worked well for us.

I was expecting to read stories of what had gone on throughout that day, and to see re-runs of the media footage, but was not expecting to see enormous pieces of crumpled architectural structure that had once supported more than 100 floors of the giant towers; crushed fire engines and police cars that had been on the scene as the buildings collapsed; or the choking thick dust. Even some of the steps down which some people escaped had been left in place – they were advised to walk down the stairs, ‘then just run. Run as fast as you can.’ These exhibits all helped to bring the viewer a tiny bit closer to the reality of that day.

The museum seemed to have every angle covered, including many examples of acts of bravery and humanity, not only by the rescue services but by members of the public who helped day after day in the search for survivors. Many offered support in the form of food and comfort. Others joined the long lines of blood donors.

Some of the stories and photographs were poignant for John whose company at the time had its New York office located in one of the towers. There were also other familiar company names from the insurance and financial sectors that were caught up in the tragic events that day.

It was sobering and not an easy story to relay, but it was part of our trip and a visit to Manhattan would not have been complete without it.

We did manage to end the day on a brighter note, however. While at the museum we received a blizzard warning which was not appropriate for us as sunny weather was scheduled all week. Our next stop was the One World Trade Tower viewing platform on the 100 floor. This is the rebuilt World Trade Centre and also referred to as the Freedom Tower.

It is close to the 9/11 Memorial Museum. We headed outside to find the notifications correct. It was snowing.

Once at the Tower we were advised that we would not see the ground, let alone a skyline view. Our tickets were already booked so we headed upwards, being the only two in the queue. The lift whisked us up in seconds, by which time the snow had stopped and we had beautiful views of the skyline over Manhattan and New Jersey. So we will leave you with some of the more cheery views of the day.

The Freedom Tower at night

Copyright: Words and photos Sue Barnard 2019

Some might say it is not a good idea to return to a holiday destination. We might agree as it can take the shine off that initial excitement and intrigue. But after a break of 26 years since we visited New York together I think it will be safe to go back and maybe get some new memories.

Way back then I was not writing a travel diary, but we were taking photos. Today’s prologue urged me to dig into the archives to find out just what we were looking at in 1993. (I knew those photos would come in handy one day!)

Of course, one notable difference will be the World Trade Centre twin towers which we travelled to the top of at that time, but we shall be paying our respects to all those who lost their lives on that tragic day by visiting the 9/11 Memorial and Museum.

It will be interesting to see if there are many more skyscrapers. I remember how I found their feats of architecture and engineering breathtaking at the time, and way in advance of London. As our capital has changed in this respect, how might New York have done?

Will the traffic be much heavier, just as many busy cities today? And what will the Christmas festivities look like? Will they be more abundant than those in London? We didn’t visit at Christmastime previously so that will be different. We also didn’t see many museums or art galleries. Those are now high on our schedule.

But something we are not planning this time around is a helicopter flight over New York. This was a tremendous experience as we tipped from one side to the other shooting off rolls of film. This is one memory I wouldn’t wish to spoil through repetition.

Copyright: Words and photos Sue Barnard 2019

Well, we made it there and back unscathed. Colombia has certainly moved on from the dangerous days of the past. The country’s biggest difficulty is getting this message across to the outside world. At no time did we feel under threat. We found all the people we came into contact with were really friendly and helpful. On one occasion when we were looking at a street map of Getsemani someone came up to us offering help. Between his Spanish and our English we managed to demonstrate that we were looking for ‘umbrella’ street. It was rather like a game of charades.

Concerns about altitude sickness were unwarranted. Despite our highest point being Bogotá at 8660ft and higher than Peru where we had suffered previously, we did not have any symptoms apart from slight shortness of breath on my part.

Speaking of high points, the mountainous landscapes and rolling hills were spectacular, as were the brightly painted houses along the way. The artwork on the outside of some of the buildings added to the ambiance (although the graffiti did not).

If I had to choose just one highlight I think it would be the terracotta house, the life’s work of Octavio Mendoza. This was not on the itinerary but was a change made because of a public holiday closure elsewhere. To think this house was built from clay and ‘fired’ in situ as the building developed, requiring specially built ovens covering each part, is incredible. The artist still lives there today and to open the house to the public is most generous.

But perhaps my most memorable experience was my decision to try out some Spanish. I have never studied Spanish, but after a few days had picked up buenos dias, si, no, por favor and muchas gracias. A week into the holiday we were in a hotel bar supping a glass of wine. I felt a little hungry and fancied some peanuts. The waiter was such a nice, mild mannered chap of about 60 years, always with a smile and keen to help.

Having mobile to hand I decided to search for the Spanish equivalent of ‘nuts’. I was just about to ask ‘Do you have… liendres’ when I realised I had written a typo meaning ‘Do you have nits?’ John and I were in fits of laughter and I tried again. ‘Do you have nuts?’ Up came the translation… I was just about to brave it for the second time when I scrolled down the screen a little further to find the offered term also meant ‘Do you have… balls or b*ll*cks?’ I shall let you work that one out.

My Spanish speaking quickly came to an end and I reverted to my charades interpretations. So here endeth another brilliant trip. Next will be a few days in New York. Until then, thank you all for joining us along the way. We will be back soon.

Copyright: Words and photos Sue Barnard 2019

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Our last full day dawned and we decided to visit an area outside the Old Town of Cartagena, called Getsemani.

It was a very hot day, 32 degrees centigrade with 86% humidity, so after a hour or so walking around Getsemani, we decided to go back to the Old Town and retreat to the air conditioned atmosphere of the Fokelore Colombian Cafe that we had visited the previous day. The lady behind the counter, Maye, remembered us and, apart from discussing our travels in Colombia, wanted to practice her English which was very good.

After refreshment we moved on to the Cartegena Gold Museum (Museo del Oro), a smaller version of the one in Bogota, that was further reduced due to refurbishment but is still worth a visit. It contained items from Colombia’s indigenous peoples prior to Europeans arriving and the map shows that the gold items were found in many different parts of Colombia. Most of the artifacts in the Cartegena museum are from the Zenú people who inhabited the costal inland plains to the south of Cartegena and it was their elaborate work that attracted the Spanish conquistadores. The Spanish, including Cartegena’s founder Pedro de Heredia, led countless expedetions into Zenu territory to steal the gold by rading the villages and robbing the graves.

Cartegena is so different to the rest of Colombia, not just being at sea level and therefore having generally better weather, but it feels more like being in the Caribbean. The people generally have darker skin and our guide said that this was the natural influence of the West African slaves that were brought to the area many hundreds of years ago.

The old town of Cartegena has many good restaurants to suit all budgets and it was nice to be able to sit outside in the evening at one of the many small squares and enjoy the buzz of the town with a nice 28 degrees centigrade.

That said, if you only visited Cartegena, as the cruise ship people do, you would get an unrealistic view of Colombia as the other parts are very different. The tourist industry has no doubt suffered from the many years of internal conflict. Consequently, the people in the hotels and restaurants often do not speak English, as in other countries we have visited. This presented a good opportunity to test my Spanish which surprisingly came back quickly when I started using it again. That said do not be put off going to Colombia as the people are very friendly, the sights are worth seeing and the food is good.

We then went back to the hotel and got ready for the long trip home which started with a flight back to Bogota and then to London Heathrow.

Adiós Cartegena and Colombia.

Copyright: Words and photos John Cruse 2019

Arriving in Cartagena was a culture shock. We thought our plane had taken a detour and landed on a Caribbean island. It could not have been more different to the Colombia we have got to know. The temperature was much higher (29 degrees C) and the humidity was an oppressive 86%. When we got off the aeroplane it was like opening an oven. But of greatest surprise was the different culture.

This side of the country has a Caribbean feel, lots of bright colours, fun, music and dancing. Above all, the facial features of the people are different to the Spanish or indigenous tribal characteristics we have become familiar with during our journey, and the skin colour is darker. When I enquired of the guide about these obvious differences, he said: “It’s the result of slavery. The community is formed largely from the descendants of slaves.”

Further reading has revealed this is an aspect often avoided or glossed over, but it is a fundamental part of the area’s history and makes Cartagena what it is today. The town was a major slave trade port. Some sources consider at least a million African slaves entered the town and were sold at its Plaza de Los Coches. The slaves were to work in the gold and silver mines, ship building, churches, convents, the docks and in domestic work. Owning slaves was considered a symbol of wealth for the rich.

One person on their side, however, was a Spanish Jesuit priest named Pedro Claver (1580-1654). He dedicated his life to helping the slaves, particularly those in the worst condition, when they arrived at port having suffered dreadful conditions during their transportation.

A third of those transported are estimated to have died in transit. Claver would board the ships and tend the sick. There are mixed messages as to the further role he played. One resident I asked said he freed many slaves and asked families to welcome them into their homes as long as they were not treated as slaves. Other sources say there is no evidence of him freeing anyone and that Claver’s role was to convert as many to Christianity as he could. Maybe we will never know, but it is said he baptised 300,000 in his lifetime.

However, his role must have been a worthy one as he became the Patron Saint of Slaves. His skeletal remains are (somewhat surprisingly) on view at the Iglesia San Pedro Claver, in Cartagena.

We also visited the Museum of the Inquisition. The Inquisition ran for 201 years in Cartagena. The stories are too grim to report, but something we can thank Pope Francis for during his visit to Cartagena in 2017 was his insistence of removing much of the museum’s items of torture. Some people might be critical of this as it is a part of the history of this site, but the museum was a destination for primary school children, many of whom were badly affected by the contents. Probably many adults too. Words and images were certainly enough to tell the stories.

On a far brighter note, the port of Cartagena continues to be important today, especially financially. At least 2,500 day trippers pour into the old city each morning from a steady stream of cruise liners, keen to barter for cheap handicrafts or splash out for top quality emeralds. Colombia claims to have the finest in the world. As they do so the town’s colourful streets will not go unnoticed. Many of the houses are beautifully painted and form a photographer’s dream.

Each year the town has a flower competition. The winning building is exempt from paying tax for one year. We assumed this was probably a council tax rather than income tax, and think it would be a nice idea for the UK too.

Interesting doorways with their many different door knockers reveal inner courtyards of running water, fountains and plantings.

A trip to Colombia would have been incomplete without seeing Cartagena. It provided a very different view of the country, its people, climate and culture.

Copyright: Words and photos Sue Barnard 2019

It can’t be brushed under the carpet. A tour of Medellín showed only too clearly the drug problem in this city and other parts of Colombia. We saw users, probably in the worst state than we have ever seen, slumped on the ground with absolutely nothing around them. Drug addiction cuts across all echelons of society, crack cocaine being one of the biggest problems. Colombia is a big cocaine producer. When I asked about the level of this I have had a variety of answers, from it being very low now and in small uncontrolled areas, to it being worse than in the days of Pablo Escobar. Some studies put the production area in excess of 200,000 acres, a doubling in recent years. But there is hope.

Medellín was once considered the most dangerous city in the world. Now it is said to be the most innovative. There are the seedier sides of town, especially involving the sex industry, but there is so much going for it, and a trip to Colombia would have been so much the weaker without experiencing Medellín.

Our first excursion took us onto the the Metro from San Antonio to Oriente in the north of the city. Despite an area with lots of graffiti the Metro was spotless. Residents are simply told not to mess the tram and they do not. From here we jumped onto the cable car taking us to Villa Sierra which gave us a view of a poorer part of the city.

We could see that houses are built up in layers as the family expands and more money comes in. But don’t be deceived. Medellín has many rich parts of the city, and if one visits a shopping mall one can see all the international brands: Nespresso, Garmin, Starbucks, L’Occitane, Dunkin’ Donuts, Under Armour and all the usual clothing names. For some there is no shortage of money.

Another visit on foot took us to the south of the city and the Comuna 13 (Commune 13) area. Today this is known for its street art, but was once the most dangerous part of the city and ruled by guerrilla groups. An ex-gang member took us around and explained that kids as young as 10 once played with machine guns.

Today this area is considered a symbol of urban transformation. “People just got tired of the continual violence”, our guide said. Mothers had a lot to do with the turnaround. Too many had lost children to the feuding. Some aspects that have helped this change have involved education (teaching young children about the perils of drugs and violence), sport facilities, better nutrition, and free library services.

What might seem a surprising additional aid in this turnaround has come from the introduction of escalators taking residents of Comuna 13 up and down the mountain side in which they live. Rather than have to travel on foot down the mountain to work which once took 90 minutes, this has been cut by half, leaving more time for people to be with their families.

The street art reflects the lives of some of the residents. There are considered to be around 600 ‘masterpieces’ (as they are termed) which are created for free. Some are by famous graffiti artists.

Rather than a once violent place where outsiders would fear to tread, now the area attracts 40,000 visitors a year who are made most welcomed and can walk around in perfect safety.

Copyright: Words and photos Sue Barnard 2019

Romesh Ranganathan has a lot to answer for. In his recent BBC TV series, The Misadventures of RR, he was filmed playing the Colombian national sport of tejo… a simple game involving explosives. Our travelling companions were keen to find out more and today we were in just the place to do so.

The game is quite simple. Competitors throw heavy metal discs (rather like the old 1lb and 2lb scale weights our grandmothers used to measure ingredients) at a box containing clay. At the centre (target) are placed paper triangles containing gunpowder. If the discs hit the paper triangles with just the right pressure the gunpowder explodes with great noise (particularly from other competitors who were not expecting it).

The health and safety executive would have a field day with this. The activity is held indoors, in ‘lanes’ of about 2m wide and 6m long. There are not any barriers between lanes apart from a table to hold the beers. There is a clay box at each end of the lane, which is used in turn – throw the disc in one direction, then when everyone has thrown, turn around and throw back in the other direction. No other instructions were given, although no doubt each team had its own tactics, not that you would know it.

Twelve of us played. First on the oche (or whatever they call it) was our tactical leader who decided hitting the target was not the way to win and instead hit the concrete ceiling with a rebound nearly taking out the opposition. It was probably one of the best tactics of the day, for it took ages for any of us to get off the starting blocks. Then came a crack and jumps of joy when the first competitor hit the target.

Our lane was not helped by the rain pouring in from the open side of the building. Many of the acclaimed ‘cracks’ I am sure came from the accompanying thunder and lightening. John and I both scored two ‘cracks’ (or hits) each of which we were delighted with (or perhaps astounded would be a better description). By the end of the hour we had run out of fizz and nobody seemed to have a clue who had won, although we were surprised that some locals play this game for six hours at a time.

We also had the opportunity to visit the Los Nevados National Park containing the critically endangered wax palms, Ceroxylon Quindiuense. The plant can grow up to 200ft and is said to be the tallest monocot in the world. The species, however, has not had a good past. Wax is contained within the trunk. In the 19th century this was used to make candles. Harvesting the wax kills the tree. The leaves of the younger specimens were cut for Palm Sunday celebrations, which caused considerable damage. The trunks were also felled to build houses. Although these are protected, recovery is very slow. It is thought that the species may well die out within the next 50 years. Attempts are being made to regenerate the forests helped more by attempts to cultivate and plant rather than waiting for nature to take its course.

The rest of the day was spent looking at some small, but pretty, towns with their colourful buildings.

Day 7 was a travelling day involving a 6.30am start and a 150 mile 9 hour drive to Medellín. Now we know why some people choose to fly. 

Copyright: Words and photos Sue Barnard 2019

Erratum: Our previous posting Bogotá to Zona Cafetera should have been day 5 and not 6. Blame it on jet lag and high altitude. Our postings are now back on track.

Cities can be pretty similar across the world during the rush hour. We left the frenetic capital of Bogotá in the early hours to fly west to the Zona Cafetera – the coffee region. From the comfort of our small coach we gazed into the endless stream of bendy buses packed to the gunnels with commuters staring aimlessly through the windows. It reminded me a little of L S Lowry’s paintings, except these guys were laden with backpacks and headphones. Weaving in and out of these bumper-to-bumper vehicles were suited individuals on scooters – upmarket electric versions of those we played on as a child.

The flight from Bogotá to Pereira, our next destination, was 30 minutes – some 250 miles. By car it could take 6-12 hours due to the Macizo volcanic range crossing our path, difficult roads and unpredictable wet weather.

The fertile valleys and volcanic soil of Pereira provide ideal conditions for coffee growing and our main visit of the day was to El Finca del Cafe, a coffee farm a short distance from the airport at Santa Rosa de Cabal.

We were welcomed by our friendly guide for the day, Jose, but it soon became apparent this was to prove no ordinary visit… we were to be set to work to experience just what it is like toiling at the coal face of coffee production.

Our first stop was to be kitted out out with traditional gear – bib and basket.

Next stop was to learn about the coffee plants which start their life on the farm as seedlings in trays, grown in volcanic soil. Once they reach about 12 inches high (at nine months) they are planted out on the hillside where they will produce the best fruits in around three years. The all important fruit quality will then start to decline, but this is not the end of the coffee plant. Every five years it will be severely pruned to regenerate itself. The life of a coffee plant for quality production is usually 21 years, although plants can live untended up to 80 years.

We then headed off to climb the steep slopes of the coffee plantation with strict instructions to pick red fruits only. Green are not ripe. The baskets hold around 10kg of fruits, and coffee workers (their hours are 5.30am to 4pm a day, and the season is just five months a year) must pick a minimum of 20kg a day just to have enough money for the absolute basics.

Being competitive souls we were out to find who could collect the most fruit. It did not help that John’s basket had some rather large holes and more fruit fell through than was actually retained. Well that is what he told me.

We climbed down and then up steep valleys picking and puffing as we travelled. A close eye had to be kept on the terrain as it would be easy to slip or twist an ankle – not an ideal situation if your livelihood depended on this work. In fact coffee growing is an industry facing difficult employment times. Unlike the older generations, the younger people no longer want to carry on in the same tradition.

Having picked our way through the coffee plantation, we headed back with our meagre offerings to experience how the beans had to be put through a mangle to remove the flesh. That was really hard work.

We then witnessed the drying and roasting processes, before being led through the professional tasting procedures. Forget your manners. This involved slurping the coffee through one’s mouth with great noise – something our parents had spent years telling us not to do.

We tasted four coffees roasted at this plantation, but realised the untrained palate would be hard pressed to rank them in order of quality. Every producer is passionate about his or her coffee, feeling the company’s versions are the best. And that is how it should be, but a show of hands amongst the group as to the favourite flavour was not decisive and indicated that it all comes down to personal taste.

Copyright: Words and photos Sue Barnard 2019

Culinary excursions are becoming a regular feature of our trips abroad which, apart from the obvious sustenance, are proving to be a good way of finding out about an area, a country, and its people.

This morning we headed to Bogotá’s Paloquemao market to see an array of fruit, vegetables, meat, fish and flowers.

For the very best supplies 3am is the time to visit when produce is in abundance and the prices cheapest. Later in the day the prices go up. For an even better deal those in the know go straight to the vans arriving at that early hour, thus cutting out the middleman – the stall holder. The market supplies the locals, but the bulk of its trade is the restaurant business.

Some stalls offer just one product, such as avocado, while others have the usual array we would expect from markets in the UK. What is different here, however, is the range on offer. Colombia has 29 varieties of potato for example, and we saw five different types of avocado on display. The country keeps the most creamy and large avocados for its own markets sending, what we were told was, a poor quality small version to Europe. You’ve guessed it, those that we see on our own supermarket shelves. Our first tasting was a large avocado which was very creamy. Prices are less than £2 a kilo.

Having started with the familiar we moved on to the unfamiliar, with a variety of taste experiences from umm, to ugh. These included guanabana, a large green spiked outer with white interior and a few black pips. The taste was rather nondescript and however much I chewed it did not seem to disappear.

Lulo is an orange fruit which, when cut open, looks like a kiwi placed within an orange. It is rather sour and has an antiseptic (acquired) taste, although is popular when combined with sugar and water as a drink.

Curuba, rather like a small stumpy courgette on the outside, but similar to passion fruit with its large seeds on the inside, was sour, but did not compete with feijoa on taste which was on a par with cleaning fluid.

We walked throughout the market admiring an array of unfamiliar produce, including enormous spring onions, up to a metre in length. The country is self sufficient in fruit and vegetables, and has a diverse range but surprisingly it does not have yellow lemons. Flowers (particularly roses and chrysanthemums) are a big export market for Colombia, which is second only to Holland.

We then had a brief visit to Bogotá’s Gold Museum set up in 1934 to protect and interpret its findings of pre-Colombian artefacts. Today it houses more than 55,000 pieces.

Continuing with the arts we visited the Botero Museum housing works by Colombian artist Fernando Botero, together with his collection of paintings by Picasso, Renoir and Monet. Botero’s images of, predominantly, overweight people (all with similar faces) reminded me of British artist Beryl Cook. It was rather an acquired taste.

A trip to Bogotá would not be complete without a ride in the cable car to Montserrat Hill (elevation 3,152m above sea level) for a panoramic view over the city. Tomorrow we fly north to continue our journey.

Copyright: Words and photos Sue Barnard 2019

We left Colombia’s National Monument town of Villa de Leyva to head back to Bogotá, which we will be visiting tomorrow. Our less jet-lagged bodies are now enabling us to appreciate the terrain along the way. It has surprised us how mountainous but fertile the landscapes are. Mountain peaks roll down steeply to green fields scraped out of rough and craggy land, interspersed at times (some might consider unfortunately) with polytunnels. Colombia is rich in a diverse range of fruit and vegetables, and we witnessed many workers toiling in the fields. Colombia’s temperature is fairly stable throughout the year, which is beneficial for its fruit and vegetables, many varieties unique to the country.

Our first stop was the Boyacá bridge. At first sight some may not recognise the significance of this site.

The Battle of Boyaca on the 7 August 1819 was a decisive battle that ensured the success of Simon Bolivar’s campaign to liberate New Granada (modern Colombia, Ecuador, Panama and Venezuela) and is considered the beginning of the independence of the north of South America from the Spanish colonial rule. It was interesting to see that in addition to the Colombian soldiers there were troops from the British Legion (England, Ireland and Scotland) in this battle and the independence campaign in general. Unsurprisingly, the 7 August is a public holiday in Colombia.

Our next stop of the day was the Salt Cathedral of Zipaquirá, which was originally a salt mine. Millions of tons of rock salt had been mined at this site over the centuries. Miners had, in the past, carved out a sanctuary in which to pray for their safekeeping. This was followed by the creation of an underground church in the 1930s, and by the 1950s a bigger construction which was to become the Salt Cathedral. By the 1990s concerns were raised that the cathedral was located in a mine still active. Ah, those old health and safety worries putting a dampener on things eh? The mine was closed.

However, a competition followed to build a new cathedral taking safety measures into consideration. The winner was architect Roswell Garavito Pearl who brought in structural changes, recreating a new cathedral 200 feet underneath the previous one. Adaptions were made to the corridors carved out by the miners. In their place came 14 stations of the cross (many with kneeling positions carved from granite); a dome; and three naves. A further four huge columns represent the four evangelists.

The salt cathedral was not what I had expected, thinking the interior would be white. Instead it was predominantly black caused by the impurities of the salt which are removed when processed for industry or consumption. However, one can only wonder at the lengths the architect and workers had gone to to create this underground monument, which has a capacity for 8,400 worshippers. Services are held each Sunday. Today, the mine comprises 200 metres of tunnels. But mining techniques have moved on apace elsewhere and fracking is the order of the day. The cathedral also assists the town as it is a popular tourist attraction.

One of the 14 Stations of the Cross, each carved from salt

The Dome

The finale of this enlightening day has to be the viewing of a mural of this year’s Tour de France winner Egan Bernal, who grew up in the town to Zipaquirá, no doubt riding its mountainous countryside. Twenty two year old Bernal is the first Colombian to win this gruelling 3,409km event. Well done to him.

Copyright: Words and photos Sue Barnard & John Cruse 2019