Sue Barnard

Time to explore… Bath’s nearby areas – Dyrham Park

Bath is conveniently placed to visit several other historic sites, which we took the opportunity to call upon. Just eight miles away is the estate of Dyrham Park, a National Trust property located in Dyrham, Gloucestershire.

The owner who had the most significant impact on the house and surrounding land was William Blathwayt (c1649-1717). Unlike many who purchased great estates with their duke’s or lord’s fortunes, he acquired it by other means.

Blathwayt’s father died before the boy was a year old, leaving the family in debt. It was his well-connected uncle, Thomas Povey, who settled the estate and became the young William’s mentor, developing his cultural interests and gearing him towards a long-term and significant career in government and colonial administration.

One of Blathwayt’s earliest positions was at the English Embassy in The Hague where he developed a taste for Delft ceramics. He later rose up the ranks of the Lords of Trade and Plantations, starting from a position of clerk and then secretary. In 1680 he held the post of Surveyor and Auditor General of Plantation Revenues where he became an expert on the British colonies.

However, it was not his developing and successful career as such that led him to own Dyrham Park, but perhaps the loss of his heart… to one Mary Wynter, for it was upon their marriage that Blathwayt gained the Dyrham estate and his wife’s inheritance. Marrying for money? Well, perhaps not. Mary died just five years later and Blathwayt never remarried. They had three children.

The estate has had its ups and downs over the centuries

The house was in a poor state when the couple married, but they soon set about remodelling the building and its interiors with new apartments, bedrooms and reception rooms. Stables and domestic offices were added. Many grand designers were brought in, including William Talman the designer of William III’s apartments at Hampton Court Palace.

Unlike most other buildings of the time, a lot of the materials were sourced worldwide rather than locally. Blathwayt had built up a wide circle of important contacts through his business dealings who could source fine materials. His luxurious interiors began to reflect that. Marble was shipped from Spain, softwood from Sweden, and black walnut from American colonies. Flemish oak floors were laid and grand staircases of cedar built. He was also developing a taste for fine paintings, books and textiles in addition to Delftware. Inventories listed almost 300 chairs alone.

Plants, trees, and seeds also came from afar and Blathwayt was keen to tame the undulating terrain. He took as keen an eye on the creation of the landscape as he did within the house.

Terracing, walls and gravel paths surrounded parterres, trained fruit trees, topiary and flowers. Statuary was in abundance and the owner clearly had a passion for waterworks. An associate of Blathwayt’s, Giles Jacob, wrote an ode to the waterworks in 1719 which referred to a fine canal, a large jet d’eau shooting water to the sky, multitudinous pipes, and waves of water descending down steps. He also mentions a statue of Neptune with trident. Today, if one climbs the steep hill overlooking the house a statue of Neptune can be seen.

Neptune stands on top of the nearby hill

Archival documents indicate the gardens would have provided a good supply of fruit – with exotic varieties grown in the glasshouses – as well as vegetables (such as asparagus) and nuts.

Blathwayt must have been keen on his garden for displayed today within the house is a drawing of ‘Dyrham, the seat of William Blathwait (sic) Esq’ by Johannes Kip, dated 1710. Kip (also spelled Kyp) was a Dutch artist who moved to England in the late 1600s, as did topographical draughtsman and painter Leonard Knyff. Both produced bird’s-eye perspectives of estate grounds and gardens.

Those in the know who come across such recognisable works may often be heard saying, “Ah, it’s a Kip and Knyff” – a recognition of the quality of their works. Although the drawings were not always accurate they are still breathtaking, especially as they were created when actually seeing a bird’s-eye view would not have been possible.

But, back to the estate. Surrounding the house is a deer park, which has a long heritage. In Anglo Saxon times there was reference to ‘Deorham’. ‘Deer’ has its origins in the word ‘Deor’.

William Blathwayt died in 1717 in his late 60s. Throughout the following generations Dyrham Park had a roller coaster of a ride with some looking after the site, while others let it decline. In time many of the hundreds of items which reflected William’s passion for paintings, fine furniture and tapestries (and which made the family home) were gradually dispersed. The site was eventually secured when the Government’s Land Fund purchased it in 1946.

Today it is a National Trust property. Its house, interiors and gardens are being renovated. At the time of our visit painstaking work was being carried out on the grand staircases and panelling. The natural wood Blathwayt had taken such efforts to source and ship from overseas had in more recent decades been covered in magnolia paint!

A fine example of trompe-l’oeil. ‘A view through a house’, by Samuel van Hoogstraten with its optical illusion of a passageway provides reason to visit and revisit this estate. It was commissioned by Thomas Povey.

Dyrham Park is certainly worth a visit, if not several for there is a lot to absorb in this great estate.

Time to explore… Bath – an inside view

A trip to Bath would not be complete without a visit to the famous Roman Baths. Compared to the interior, the entrance to the Baths is quite unassuming, but stepping inside reveals an Aladdin’s cave. Archaeologists have been studying and recording the site since at least the 1700s.

It was the Romans who ‘tamed’ the hot springs formed by water falling as rain on the Mendip Hills which then percolated through limestone to a depth reaching 4,300 metres. During this process natural heat boosted the water temperature up to 96 degrees Centigrade. The hot water then rose to burst through the land surface as hot springs… and it still does.

The Romans considered the springs were sacred to the Goddess Sulis. Baths and a Temple (of Sulis Minerva) were constructed (circa AD75), and the resulting settlement – primarily a destination for pilgrims – was named Aquae Sulis. The site today includes several baths, one being the much-photographed Great Bath (a swimming pool), the hot spring, the remains of steam rooms, underground heating systems, and some fine statues overlooking the visitors.

But it was the minutiae that also captured our attention. Amongst the exhibits was a collection of little pieces of pewter or lead dating back to the 2nd century. These are known as Roman curse tablets that were inscribed and thrown into the Bath’s spring where the spirit of Sulis Minerva lived. These were mainly from individuals suffering from an injustice and they hoped the culprit would be punished as a result. Many of the tablets can still be read, mostly relating to theft, such as of a bracelet, silver coins, or a hooded cloak. One person reported the theft of a section of a plough; another referred to stolen silver coins.

The curse tablets, with messages to the gods

Other visitors would have felt upset too, at the loss of engraved gemstones. These were reminiscent of cameo rings today and were found in the main drain. It is considered that the warm water in which people relaxed may have softened the material holding the stones within the rings.

Nearby the Baths a hoard of almost 18,000 silver coins had been buried, the earliest dated 32BC and the latest 275AD. Some came from abroad, reflecting international trade in the area. Some were even forgeries. A considerably amount was on display.

Just some of the 18,000 coins discovered in Bath

What could be easily overlooked is that the Roman Baths, although large inside, are considered to be just a small part of what was a walled settlement. Underneath the surrounding tightly-packed town today may remain the foundations of another bathhouse, shrines, a theatre, temple, residences and mosaics.

We could have spent most of the day at this site alone, but time was of the essence and we also squeezed in the Assembly Rooms. This site was designed by John Wood the Younger in 1769 with the purpose of providing a most suitable venue for the rich and noble to converse, dance and take tea. At this time, we were to read, for medical reasons gambling was recommended – its distraction was beneficial for taking the mind off one’s ailments. Visitors to the Assembly Rooms included Jane Austen (a museum dedicated to her is nearby), Samuel Johnson, Handel and Haydn.

Those days of finery are now gone but the Assembly Rooms still form a meeting place for some. The interior can still be viewed, hung with chandeliers; tea can be taken, and its Fashion Museum visited.

Also worth seeing is No 1 Royal Crescent, built by John Wood the Younger. Visitors can get an insight of the upstairs downstairs life in Georgian times. Unfortunately, the site had closed for the season the day we arrived, but something at the entrance caught our attention. This was a link-snuffer. Before streets were lit, link-boys holding a flame could be hired to direct people to their required addresses. They have been mentioned by Shakespeare and in the novels of Dickens. When arriving at the destination the boys would snuff out the flame in the snuffer in order to save their valuable tallow. Some link-boys however were engaged by criminal gangs.

PS If the photos do not appear within the emails, please click on to the final link of the page which will take you to the website. Technology eh!

Time to explore… Bath – an outside view

It’s time to step into the shoes of the Georgians. ‘Must-see’ areas of Bath have to include the Royal Crescent and The Circus. In the 1700s many of Bath’s narrow medieval streets were replaced with fine Palladian squares, terraces, crescents and pleasure gardens. Famous names of note were architect and town planner John Wood the Elder (1704-1754) and his son John Wood the Younger (1728-1782).

The Royal Crescent, at least the central part. Where was my wide-angled lens when I needed it?

Wood the Elder, having a penchant for Palladian architecture and Bath’s historic roots, and the younger Wood, were responsible for the laying out of Queen’s Square which, in 1830, was visited by the young – later to become Queen – Victoria, who it is said never returned again. They also designed The Circus and Royal Crescent. Recognition of their work in more recent years was said to be, by no other than Sir Bannister Fletcher in his ‘A history of Architecture’, “The most spectacular examples of 18th century urban development.” He added: “References to the Roman past of Bath are evident in The Circus, with its three storeys of paired half-columns, and in the Royal Crescent, unified by a giant order of engaged columns.”

Just as an aside, Sir Bannister Fletcher’s work is a classic reference for those interested in architectural history. How lucky was I to come across a fine copy of this weighty tome in a charity shop. A win win, situation for all. His greatly detailed line drawings are (once seen) highly recognisable and the descriptive detail most interesting. However, back to Bath!

If you take the opportunity to see an aerial view of Bath on-line it will be well worth the effort. Better still – take a balloon ride.

Hot air balloon rides are a popular pastime on a Sunday evening

Casting aside for one moment the Woods’ tremendous designs, contributing to the accolade of Bath being a UNESCO site were some of the materials used. In steps businessman Ralph Allen (1693-1764) who, having made his wealth from developing the national network of postal routes (Bath has its own Postal Museum, but not always open), owned the local quarries that supplied the honey-coloured building materials from which many of Bath’s grand houses are constructed. Allen also commissioned the nearby Prior Park with its Palladian mansion, but more about that in a moment.

A keen eye when walking along the Woods’ Royal Crescent will reveal several plaques. Notable residents have included Sir Isaac Pitman of shorthand fame (it served me well over the years); Henry Sandford, a retired businessman and Irish MP described as a ‘gentleman of the most benevolent disposition’ (a phrase not generally used today); and concert conductor Thomas Lindley whose daughter Elizabeth eloped with playwright, poet and one-time owner of the Theatre Royal, Drury Lane, Richard Brinsley Sheriden.

Plaque for Sir Isaac Pitman, of shorthand fame

The Linley family had the arts in their blood

Note should also be made of Elizabeth Montagu’s residence at No 16 (now an hotel) where she hosted ‘blue stocking’ events – a literary discussion group emphasising education and mutual cooperation for men and women. Those blue stockings were not, in fact, belonging to the 18th century ladies, but to botanist Benjamin Stillingfleet who, not dressing for the occasion, turned up in basic blue worsted stockings, and obviously was not allowed to forget it!

Another noteworthy aspect is the view from the Royal Crescent over the Royal Victoria Park opposite. A well-placed ha-ha running parallel to the buildings kept out the riffraff. Even today, this area is private and for residents only.

Unfortunately for Wood the Elder he did not live to see the completion of The Circus (formerly King’s Circus). He died soon after the first stone was laid. It was his son who continued the work that included serpents, acorns and nautical symbols on the buildings’ frontages. The Circus design was said to be based on Stonehenge, with the same diameter. At the time of our visit the central green space was being used for a Sunday afternoon hymn-singing gathering.

If time is of the essence, or legs tire from the continuous uphill-downhill walking, a hop-on, hop-off bus is a quicker way of seeing the town and surroundings (even though the pollution and 15-minute regularity is not popular with the locals). It was by this means that we travelled to Prior Park, now in the hands of the National Trust.

The Hop-on Hop-off bus, good for visitors but not so good for residents

This visit came as a shock since my previous garden history-focused trip five years ago. And it was all down to some little critters, Pacifastacus leniusculus, or the American signal crayfish. The native species (white-clawed Austropotamobius pallipes) have been gradually eradicated by the aggressive and fertile signal species that has a fondness of burrowing into the banks, which opens voids, made larger by flowing water. Consequently, two of the lakes had been drained and almost half of the park was cordoned off while construction works were carried out using heavy machinery. One wonders what Ralph Allen and his contemporaries would have made of it.

Prior Park’s Palladian Bridge, inspired by Venetian architect Andrea Palladio who was influenced by architecture of the ancient Greeks and Romans

Prior Park has suffered over the years. The school on site was once Ralph Allen’s mansion and what a view he would have had, high up overlooking Bath. When creating the garden he consulted Alexander Pope and Lancelot Brown, who carried out the works that incorporated three lakes and a magnificent Palladian Bridge (still spectacular, and one of only four worldwide). When the National Trust took ownership of this historic site in 1996 the garden was in disrepair. Such gardens are an uphill struggle (very much so in this case with its heart-attack climbs), but the custodians are looking to a bright future once the works are completed and restoration to its 18th century ideals are brought back once again.

If strolling is your thing the National Trust has designed a six-mile walk around Bath taking in some fine views and history, otherwise those hop-on, hop-off buses will provide a more relaxing trip through some areas as long as you can duck the overgrown branches from the open top deck, which somewhat restrict the view (usually where it matters most!).

Time to explore… Bath, UK. A brief history

Restrictions on overseas travel due to the pandemic gave us an opportunity to focus on our wonderful, picturesque, interesting and historic sites of the UK. In 2021, this included a few days away in Bath.

Bath, in the county of Somerset, south-west England, is well known for its Roman spas and Georgian architecture, but there are many other aspects worthy of note.

Its land structure has its roots in the ice ages, most notably 450,000 years and 20,000 years ago. Climate change (fluctuating between ice and warmer periods) even then affected the landscapes. Of significance was the resulting formation of the river system within the Avon Valley – the River Avon and its tributaries. A combination of water supply and light limestone soils was ideal for supporting human habitation.

Flint artefacts dating back 10,000 years provide evidence of human life in the area, while land clearance for food crops is considered to have been in existence 6,000 years ago. Examples of round barrows and farmsteads dating to the Bronze Age (3,000 years ago) can also be found around Bath.

There are two other aspects of note. Due to its fortuitous narrow River Avon crossing point, trade and travel routes developed. The Fosse Way, a Roman road which followed pre-historic routes, crossed the river at Bath.

Additionally, various hot springs were to prove a godsend to the Romans who created a spa and religious centre that they named Aquae Sulis, drawing people from across the Roman Empire.

Aquae Sulis was a strategic part of the Roman Empire. More can be found about both these images at the Roman Baths

A reconstruction of a skull buried at Aquae Sulis, considered to be that of a man from Syria. This provides evidence that people travelled far. He was considered wealthy as he had tooth decay as a result of consuming honey, a luxury item. The date is unknown but burials were more common after the 3rd century AD. The site was built after AD43

In relatively more recent times, it was around Bath that the importance of strata identification was recognised. One William Smith, a surveyor and geologist (1769-1839), was commissioned in his late 20s to survey routes for a proposed Somerset coal canal, intended to take coal via other canals to London. His work led him to examine and identify differences in land strata and the fossils contained therein, later referred to as stratigraphy, but not by Smith at the time. Canal digging provided the opportunity to examine depths of the landscape in this way, which was considerably earlier than railway excavation.

Smith went on to create a map of geological cross-sections throughout England and Wales, dated 1815. This had significant benefits for coal exploration at a time when prospecting was a hit-and-miss affair, and would have help fuel (pun intended) the Industrial Revolution.

He was not alone in his discoveries, but in addition to mapping and written works he produced a ‘Geological table of British organized fossils’, which is still referred to today. He presented some of his works to the Geological Society. Unfortunately, his achievements did not bring him wealth. Instead his debts landed him in prison for a short time. It was only in later years that the significance of his works was recognised.

An interesting link is that at one stage he entered into business in Bath with a Jeremiah Cruse, perhaps an ancestor of our very own John Cruse.

Today Bath is of such significance it has UNESCO accreditation.

Time to explore… the UK

Guess where we have been!

All will be revealed in the coming days. We hope you enjoy.

Australia 2020 – Epilogue

On touching down in Perth at the start of our trip I did say ‘I could live in Australia’. That could have been nearer the mark than expected.

The advice given to us by our travel agent when we were in Sydney was to leave on the next available flight or risk being stranded because international flights were soon to stop in an attempt to restrict the spread of the Coronavirus. Tasmania, our next destination, was already insisting travellers isolate for 14 days. Our visit there was for just five days, so not an appropriate onward journey. Sites in our final destination, Melbourne, were closing their doors too. This was especially disappointing as we were due to visit our friends in Australia, Diane and Eric, for the first time on their home ground.

Our trip was to be a one-time visit due to the distance, which is why we planned to cover so much ground. However, we enjoyed the country so much that we would like to go back, picking up in Sydney where we left off.

Our final leg, abandoned in Sydney but hopefully to be picked up again sometime in the future

While being an English speaking nation and driving on the left side of the road had big benefits, it was the Australian culture and humour, coupled with such a diversity of sites across this huge continent that made the trip so enjoyable.

During our three weeks there we were also becoming accustomed to their art of shortening words. ‘Would you like some Chardy or Savvy b’, were examples when requesting a glass of wine. Or maybe one would like a bevo (bevvie to us in the UK). If we had ventured to the supermarket we might have been asking for an avo (avocado), a sanga (sandwich), or an OJ (orange juice).

If we had made it to Tassie (Tasmania) we will have had to call into a servo (service station), and made sure we didn’t get our rego (registration plate) noted by the traffic police as we drove around the island. After a night drinking we could have called in for a Maccas (McDonalds), or if it was a really heavy night what better than a dirty kebab? (Thanks for the crash course in shortening Adrian.)

What really threw me though was seeing a sign at a pub in Perth warning that ‘thongs’ could not be worn at the venue after 7pm. I thought that was very liberal until I found these were flip flop footwear in our version of the language and not very brief swimwear.

The only disappointing aspect we came across was buying some Aboriginal items that, although designed by indigenous people, were actually made in India or China. This was such a shame as tourist products can attract a higher price and it would have been good to see these particular items made in their country of origin.

Australia has certainly had its problems with the bush fires, compounded by media reports giving the impression there was not much left to see in the country. We found this to be far from the reality. Kangaroo Island, for example, although hit badly by the fires was still open for visitors to enjoy and learn more about the area and its animals.

In our three action-packed weeks we saw some wonderful and unique sites, met some nice and helpful people, and had many laughs. The virus has added to the tourism industry’s woes, but we hope to be some of the tourists to return to experience this great continent in the future.

And finally, on a lighter note…

Ted really got into the Australian mood. We just cannot prise him away from his kangaroo jumper. A photo especially for Adrian… he knows why

Ted flies home with two adopted orphans following the Kangaroo Island fires, Bongaroo (now shortened to Bongo in true Australian style) and Eric the koala, named after our Aussie friend!

Australia 2020 – Port Douglas, Great Barrier Reef, Cape Tribulation and the Daintree River

Today was the day. We lost our virginity… on the Great Barrier Reef.

If someone had said recently that we would go snorkelling I would not have believed them. For many, it’s a piece of cake having carried out this activity since they were children. But neither of us had snorkelled before let alone swam off a boat in the middle of the ocean.

What an introduction, no less than the Great Barrier Reef itself. While all the experienced swimmers set off as a group we were given private tuition with crew member Monique who assured me she had actually done this before (in fact thousands of times, being a diver herself).

We had two sessions during the trip. Before I had even got off the boat I was gagging at the thought of putting the mouthpiece in. Then, coerced into the water, with one hand I grasped the orange lifebuoy ring, while the other tightly gripped Monique’s hand. The calm water splashed around my face, and water was getting in my mask and up my nose. Monique sorted me out and suggested I put my face in the water. I thought ‘Are you kidding!’ I did as she said and was so surprised how everything became calm immediately.

We swam gently along and beautiful corals came into sight. I was particularly drawn to some golden corals which looked as if they were molten lava dripping over rocks. The whole experience was like floating over a beautiful garden.

Then we came upon a giant clam (which cleanses the water as it passes through itself). As Monique swam gently by, it closed its shell. Then a turtle passed slowly under us. Then a huge fish, which must have been 3 feet long with a depth of 18 inches, hung around us. Next we saw a one metre long sea cucumber, not green but cream with beautiful brown markings.

There were shoals of fish, some tiny and bright and almost see-through. Others were in singles or pairs. What also caught my eye were the brightest blue seastars and the abalone shells with their pearl interiors shining out like little jewels.

We have heard the reports of coral bleaching from the environmentalists over recent years, but were told that this part of the reef is healthy and thriving well. We saw masses of corals with no sign of bleaching.

By the end of the second session I was much more relaxed and even managing to adjust my water-filled mask from time to time to save myself from drowning, thanks to Moniques’ careful instruction.

With Monique, our very helpful instructor

View from the boat – Snapper Island, named so because it looks like a crocodile

But my ‘firsts’ were not to end there on this leg of our journey. Another first was my performance of the St Vitus dance.

The following day we took a trip to Cape Tribulation, including a cruise along the Daintree river. Cape Tribulation is a remote headland in northeast Queensland and was named by Captain James Cook, as his ship was damaged on the Great Barrier Reef in 1770 and marked the start of ‘all his troubles’.

The river trip was within the Daintree forest, considered to be the oldest continually surviving tropical rainforest in the world, dating back millions of years. As we meandered along the Daintree river we watched fruit bats fly and hang upside down, and saw a crocodile swimming nearby.

Dragon Boyd lizard in the Daintree forest

We then headed for a forest walk and towards the end, as our guide was pointing out one of many poisonous insects, I caught sight of a guy beside me jumping and hitting his legs. The next thing I knew I was copying with gay abandon. We had managed to tread on an Oecophylla smaragdina nest, otherwise known as green tree ants.

These ants swarm. My trainers were covered in them and their first stop was my legs, before travelling as far as my neck. They bite and then spray formic acid into the wound. This feels like lots of painful pin pricks. As I jumped up and down trying to get rid of them I was assured they were not on the extensive list of highly poisonous insects and animals in Australia and if I squeezed the sac on their backs I would get a refreshing lemon taste from it – not easy when continuing to bash my legs to get rid of the pests.

These activities were carried out from Port Douglas. This was once a destination for the gold rush, and later farming. Now it’s a destination for holiday makers, a few shopkeepers and extensive sugar cane production.

Our hotel’s private beach at Port Douglas, and not a soul around

Our next point of call is Hervey Bay, Fraser Island and Lady Elliott Island via Brisbane, more than 1,200 miles from our current destination. We move onward.

Australia 2020 – Uluru (Ayers Rock)

The next stage of our trip: Adelaide to Ayres Rock, then onward to Cairns, Fraser Island and Lady Elliot Island

Many will have heard of the Mexican wave, but our arrival on the small airstrip of Ayers Rock saw us experiencing the Ayers Rock wave. All people outside the aeroplane to assist with our arrival were waving their arms. Not to welcome us, but attempting to get rid of the flies. It seems that the flies are on holiday too. They only come out at a certain temperature and our arrival at 30 degrees centigrade was just right for them.

Just as well we bought our bug hats. All around this small but attractive resort guests have their faces masked from the little critters.

We were to spend four days in Uluru getting to know more about the Aboriginal history and way of life, and of course viewing the famous Ayres Rock. Lots of early mornings were scheduled, the earliest being 3am, so a 5am start on one of those days was a welcome lie in. All activities at Ayers Rock either start very early to ensure that they finish before the heat of midday (38 degrees centigrade and it’s now autumn in Australia) or, for outside dining, after dark when the billions of flies go to bed.

We were off to a good start on our first day, undertaking an 8 mile trek around the base of Ayres Rock. Since last October, this sacred place of the Aboriginal people has been off limits for any climbers. Until that time there was a precariously steep track for enthusiasts to climb to the top. There had been many casualties and deaths over the years, but the climb had been halted largely due to the wishes of the indigenous people.

Grandparents hand down these stories – encompassing moral messages as well as survival techniques – to their grandchildren, while their fathers are hunting and mothers are gathering. It was not until recent years that some of these stories were written down, but many are still only known amongst the Aboriginal people.

The rock has important spiritual significance for the Aboriginal people. Many sections we passed are considered ‘sensitive sites’ where photography is not permitted. At these points we listened to some of the stories handed down over the generations which form a basis of the Aboriginal oral histories. Many made reference to indentations in the rock, such as the face of a snake. These stories, referred to as Tjukurpa, record the creation of all living creatures and the landscape, as well as the appropriate way to relate to each other and aspects of the environment, such as directing tribal members to food sources, watering holes or ceremonial places.

A creature’s head, referred to in the Tjukurpa historic storytelling

Our full base walk circumnavigated the rock, taking some four hours with a few stops. I was keen that John kept up his exercise regime so I let him carry my ‘tucker’ bag with breakfast and lots of heavy water, in addition to his own as we both battled the heat and constant irritation of thousands of flies.

No only did John have to carry my tucker bag, but he had to transport hundreds of flies

In the evening we were off for a Sound of Silence trip which involved watching the sun setting and a talk on astronomy while viewing the stars.

Later the silence was broken over a three-course dinner with wine, as we chatted to some entertaining Greek-Cypriot Australian women who had met many years ago at school and had decided to give their families a break, leaving them back in Sydney while they enjoyed the Ayres Rock experience. Lots of laughter and cultural exchanges followed between us.

The next day we were off to the Kings Canyon, a three hour drive away. We had the choice of climbing 500 uneven steps up the canyon to walk around the perimeter. We were warned this would be strenuous, carried out in high heat and with flies. Those intending to climb had (by regulation) to carry three litres of water. ‘That’ll be six litres then’, was John’s comment based on his experience assisting me on the hike the previous day, so we opted for the less arduous walk in the canyon valley.

A benefit of this was that we could book a 15 minute flight in a Bell Jet Ranger helicopter flying across the canyon, which was tremendous and meant that we saw much more of the sandstone top than had we hiked up. It was surprising how green the areas around the canyon were in this dry central part of Australia. From some of the green ‘rivers’ of vegetation we could identify where underground waters ran.

Our final morning added to the whole experience. Our 4am start enabled us to travel in an off-road monster up the dunes to watch the beautiful sunrise while eating bacon rolls.

The monster: a chassis designed for mines, the body designed for travellers’ comfort

Then it was off to hear some more storytelling and viewing of rock art dating back up to 7,000 years before heading to our next destination, Cairns and Port Douglas – hopefully without the flies.

Rock art at Ayres Rock date back up to 7,000 years

Australia 2020 – Kangaroo Island

Few had heard of Kangaroo Island until the media reported the devastation caused by the bush fires which raged for weeks after Christmas. The fires destroyed 40% of the island’s vegetation, including the Flinders Chase National Park, a visitors’ centre, hotel and caravan park. Two resident males were killed trying to escape the fires by car, and thousands of animals perished, including kangaroos, koalas and sheep, plus insects and snakes.

Fire alerts which signal warnings up to catastrophic, as experienced from December 2019

Checking the situation before we left, we were advised that our tour could go ahead, as the remaining 60% of land offered good opportunities to learn more about the area. We took the opportunity, therefore, to hop over to Kangaroo Island and we were pleased we did.

We spent two days touring with our excellent guide Lio and four other travelling companions. During the first day we didn’t see any destruction, focusing on the east and central parts of the island.

We visited the beautiful and sandy Seal Bay where we watched mother seals looking after their young. The beach was not crowded with seals which enabled us to concentrate on just a few of these cute mammals.

Ahhh. How cute are these little ones? Mum with baby

Then it was on to koala I-spy. These little ones are hard to spot, staying up trees for most of their lives and sleeping 20 hours a day, but some actually sat and watched down on us which provided a few photo opportunities.

Koalas eat only eucalyptus leaves. There are many varieties on the island, but the koalas consume only five species with the lowest oil content. The leaves are poisonous to their system and it takes them huge energy and several days to digest. Hence their slow nature.

The fires have destroyed much of their habitat and subsequent food sources. This is causing issues for those involved in their care. Koalas would rather starve than eat the wrong species of eucalyptus. Consequently there are efforts to collect leaves from the trees in the east of the island to provide feed for remaining koalas in the fire-damaged areas.

The island also has high sand dunes, at Vivonne Bay in the south, which we climbed. Upon every step our feet sank into the fine hot sand, which made for a good workout.

On our second day we headed towards the destructed west side of the island. This 40% of the land mass is out of bounds for visitors currently due to safety reasons; even the roads have been destroyed, their tarmac melting in the heat. However, we were able to view the outskirts, with their burnt or bulldozed trees – emergency efforts to create fire breaks.

It was incredible seeing the charred remains close up. Within two months of the fires raging new growth is emerging from the trunks.

Where until recently there was dense foliage, now the landscape is sparse and burnt

But there is hope. Regrowth has started just weeks of the fires.

Our final visit was to a wildlife park where the staff are caring for animals injured or orphaned in the fire. Attempts are being made to put these back into their natural environment, but the orphans which had to be hand raised (and bottle fed every four hours) will not know how to fend for themselves in the wild so will need to remain in captivity.

At this venue we were able to go into the large enclosures of the kangaroos and wallabies, watching the little joeys run into their mother’s pouches. The pouches are nothing like the horizontal slits across the mother’s belly as shown in cartoon drawings. Instead they comprise a hole in the tummy surface which opens easily like a pair of elasticated curtains through which the very leggy joey speedily clambers in, swiftly turning around to pop its head out and view the outside world.

An older joey feeds from the ground while in the safety of its mum’s pouch

The kangaroos have four teats. The two lower ones feed the newborn ‘jellybeans’ (just five weeks gestation and looking like jellybeans) with full cream milk for the first 18 months of their lives. They then escalate to the two upper teats serving semi skimmed milk so that mum can go on to feed the next offspring. If she had six teats no doubt she would be serving cappuccino.

Kangaroo Island certainly has its problems, but for tourists the trip seemed unaffected. The island’s biggest issues currently are that some people have been scared off due to the negative publicity, but it is suffering a double whammy with flights being restricted into the country because of the C-virus.

It proved to be a wonderful and enlightening trip. We are so pleased we still had the opportunity to visit.

PS Apologies for any duplicate postings recently. We rely on the wi-fi systems as we travel along which often throw up technical issues out of our control.

Australia 2020 – Perth to Adelaide via the Indian Pacific railway (with photos)

Indian Pacific train route from Perth to Adelaide

I didn’t think, when I awoke on Sunday morning that I would find myself interested in rail gauges, but that was to be. We had embarked on a 48 hour journey, travelling across two thirds of Australia from Perth to Adelaide on the Indian Pacific railway.

By 1917 it was possible to travel by train from the Indian Ocean at Perth to the Pacific Ocean at Sydney. Problem was that a mix of rail track gauges had been created to suit different trains – anything from 9” wide to 5’4”. This necessitated passengers changing from one train to another up to six times across the full journey.

Standardised guage made all the difference to cross-country rail passengers

It was not until 1969 that a standard gauge rail system (at 5’4” wide) was created across the full width of the country that enabled passengers to complete the journey on just one train.

While the development of the railway may have been welcomed by many, it was not the case for all. In 1882 Aboriginal people around the area of Ooldea, on the east side of the Nullarbor plain, considered the arriving steam train was a great white snake carrying wicked spirits. Today, some might consider that still to be true having viewed the contents of the bar area.

Our journey took us through some towns with interesting names such as Koolyanobbing, six hours by train from Perth; Tarcoola, Kingoonya and Wirraminna. Many of these small settlements support farming communities. A lot of the land we travel through is given over to sheep farming and hay production. Other locations, such as Cook (between Perth and Adelaide) comprise just four residents who provide accommodation for train drivers changing shifts and staying between 8 and 30 hours.

The Indian Pacific crawls at a snail’s pace compared to our high speed trains, but having 31 coaches going at a faster pace might see the rear carriages shooting off the rails, just like kids when they run around the playground hands linked in a long chain.

Our train – with 31 coaches we couldn’t see from end to end

We saw our first kangaroos (at a distance) an hour into our journey, and after four hours we saw a low flying helicopter. These are used to round up sheep across huge swathes of land. We passed several small sites with airstrips which also double up for the Flying Doctors who provide vital emergency support to rural communities and, indeed, train occupants in this vast outback. One train driver had to be taken off by the Flying Doctor after he was bitten by a poisonous spider. Luckily, this was not on our train.

At certain points along the route we were given the opportunity to stretch our legs. This included a visit to Australia’s second biggest pit, the Super Pit in Kalgoorlie, which mines gold. The trouble was that we arrived at 10pm so a lot of the views were in darkness, but we did get the opportunity to jump on a digger or two, which were huge. The rest of the community were either employed to entertain us or were in bed, apart from a few young guys going to a local bar for a few bevvies.

The potential of the area, where Kalgoorlie later became established, was discovered by chance. In 1893 prospector Paddy Hannah found a substantial amount of gold nuggets and this sparked the biggest gold rush in Australian history. It is still a gold mine today, in more ways than one. The pit is so large it can be seen from space.

We also found out there are feral camels, introduced to the country to transport food and equipment when the Super Pit was being developed. We have not seen any so far, but they did make a lovely curry at lunchtime! Truly.

Breakfast off the train the following morning gave us the chance to have a look at the entire length of our 31 carriage train when we disembarked at Rawlinna, which borders the largest sheep station in the Southern Hemisphere, comprising 80,000 sheep. Try counting them in your sleep.

Soon after, the landscape started to slowly change to semi-desert. Where once we saw trees and bushes, we now viewed a vast expanse of red coloured sand and low lying salt bushes – trees cannot survive in this calcium-rich ground which was once seabed.

We completed our journey in Adelaide, which we will use as a base for other trips in the surrounding regions.

PS Apologies, wi fi problems meant that yesterday’s posting came across without photos.