Our eighth day saw us on the road again. This time heading from Natchez to New Orleans. Climbing on board the coach I wondered what New Orleans would have in store for us – there was so much destruction caused by Hurricane Katrina in 2005 when a reported 1,500 people died and damage estimates reached $300 billion. Would some of the destruction still be evident, and to what extent had the city recovered? But answers to that were to come later. In the meantime we had a 200 mile journey taking us into the state of Mississippi.
Mississippi. Oh how I remember those school days where we would spell out the name M-I-double S-I-double S-I-double P-I as we played two-balls against the wall. There are now even online videos of how this game is played. Ah progress.
But back to the road. We headed across the expansive Natchez-Vidalia bridge (above) across the Mississippi River and towards our first stop at one of the many area interpretation centres – this is something the Americans do very well. This was a brief, but poignant, stop as the location was nearby the now-abandoned West Feliciana railroad line. The wagons would haul cotton across country to the Mississippi River for shipping all around the world. Poignant because our experience yesterday gave us an insight into the hard efforts and struggles of the Natchez workers, which ultimately led to worldwide trade.
The West Feliciana railroad was set up in the first half of the 19th century and fell into disrepair in 1978.
We were then off to a place we were looking forward to seeing, actually because our tour guide kept playing a catchy tune of that name – ‘Callin’ Baton Rouge’ by Garth Brooks. I can hear that tune as I write these words and like Garth Brooks, we too had to send our love down to Baton Rouge, and so we did while we lunched and made a short visit to Louisiana’s capital city.
The town included two buildings – the Louisiana State Capitol and the Old State Capitol. The former welcomed visitors from afar with its 450 feet tall tower.
We didn’t visit the tall State Capitol but did go inside the older Gothic Revival building which was designed by James H Dakin in 1850. It served as the Capitol until it was occupied by Union forces in the Civil War. It later faced fires and a reconstruction and continued once again as the Capitol until 1932 when the tall building was erected.
Inside this castle-style building was an ornate pink interior with beautiful spiral staircase and balustrades, Gothic arches and picturesque glass dome.
Proudly displayed at the entrance were 15 Louisiana Purchase flags alongside the American flag. These represent the 15 states purchased by President Thomas Jefferson in 1803 from Napoleon Bonaparte when the latter needed finances for his war against Britain. New Orleans was sold and in return Jefferson gained control over the port of New Orleans and the Mississippi River, securing an important shipping route.
Then we were off once again, this time reaching our destination at New Orleans. We had a quick turnaround, for our evening entertainment was a visit to the New Orleans School of Cooking.
This was an eye-opener. We learnt all about Gumbo! This is the official Louisiana state dish comprising mainly strong-flavoured stock, meat (in our case) or shellfish, vegetables and… LARD! Now I am familiar about the culinary uses of lard (can’t beat it in pastry or for roasting potatoes), however, we have never seen it used in such QUANTITIES! (Oh, I feel I am turning into an impression of Tom Allen.)
I appreciate we were cooking for more than 40 people, but this steaming pot held several kilos of lard together with a bubbling array of deboned chicken, sausage, vegetables, stock, and the secret ingredient ‘Joe’s Stuff’ seasoning – the latter being HOT. Be warned. The longer the recipe cooks the darker it gets, and the more flavourful it becomes.
Despite all the calories and cholesterol, boy it was tasty. We also tried Jambalaya which is a savoury rice dish developed in Louisiana by fusing together African, Spanish and French influences and consisting mainly of meat or seafood, or both, and vegetables mixed with rices and spices.
So endeth our first day in New Orleans, but two more were to follow.
Copyright: Words and photos Sue Barnard 2024