There’s some discrepancy. Nashville has been commonly called The Music City. Some say that Queen Victoria was responsible for the town getting this label, having seen the Fisk Jubilee Singers (of Fisk University) in the late 1800s. She was so impressed with their performance that she is said to have commented that they must be from a “city of music”. As a result Nashville took on The Music City moniker. However, others claim it was WSM Radio’s announcer David Cobb who coined the term ‘Music City USA’. It has since been the official nickname for Nashville.
Whatever the origins we were to find there was good reason for Nashville getting that name – music was clearly a major part of the city’s culture. The main focus of our tour was on music and in Nashville we experienced it in several ways. These included studio visits, live performances and an ‘audience with’, and museums dedicated to genres and individual musicians.
First up was RCA’s Studio B where an enthusiastic young man with a font of knowledge showed us around. This studio is one of the most significant music sites in the world, with artists such as Elvis, the Everly Brothers, Roy Orbison, Jim Reeves and Dolly Parton having recorded here. Elvis recorded more than 200 of his 700 records at Studio B, including in excess of 30 over a five-day stint. Our host spoke of some of the Elvis ‘outtakes’, but one left in is on ‘Are you lonesome tonight’. If you listen right at the end you’ll hear a click. For some reason this remained. Maybe time just ran out to remove it. The pressure was on to produce. At one time three songs a day were recorded here. At the end of 1956 alone RCA had sales of 10 million singles and three million EPs.
Other well known records produced included the Everly Brothers’ ‘All I have to do is dream’, Roy Orbison’s ‘Only the lonely’, and Dolly Parton’s ‘Joshua’.
In the studio we were shown the Steinway piano that Elvis played (pictured above) and ‘X marks the spot’ (below), where recording artists stand for the ultimate sound position within the studio.
X marks the spot (lower left on the flooring)
One of the lesser known records produced at the studio. ‘Lullaby Yodel’ seems rather contradictory
The studio’s sound proofing had been designed to eliminate echoes and that remains today as our host demonstrated with several loud claps.
If I hear ‘I walk the line’ one more time I might go crazy. This was not being played at Studio B, but at the Johnny Cash museum. I don’t know why this was the only tune playing (repeatedly) considering he had recorded more than 1,500 songs during his lifetime. Nonetheless, the museum was a tribute to this popular country, rock ’n’ roll, bluegrass, gospel and folk artist who sold more than 100 million records.
The museum displayed a wealth of memorabilia, including costumes, album covers, guitars and gold discs. But we were to get a closer insight into the Cash family when we were taken to ‘an audience with’, and that being with one of his granddaughters. Chelsea Crowell (photo below) is the daughter of Johnny Cash’s daughter Rosanne and husband Rodney Crowell, each of whom are in the music business.
Chelsea told us that she had grown up to the sound of music, listening to a wide range of genres with the family. She was refreshing modest, telling us how she particularly liked writing songs. She interspersed talking about her musical life with a number of songs as she strummed her guitar. Our group of 41 visitors were able to ask questions and she was so approachable that she handed over her guitar to one member to play and sing. This experience came as a particular benefit of being in a tour group. Chelsea carried out these ‘an audience with’ occasions from time to time, but as individual travellers to book onto such an event would not have been possible.
Also visited was the Country Music Hall of Fame, a site that collects, preserves and interprets the traditions of country music. This museum detailed many singers, their works and equipment. Familiar names in the UK were Jerry Lee Lewis, The Everly Brothers, Brenda Lee and Jim Reeves. But what caught my eye were the costumes, especially the intricate leather outfits. Time and again the creators were listed as Nudie’s Rodeo Taylors. The suit that follows was created for Chris Ethridge of the Flying Burrito Brothers in 1968. It was later worn by Elton John for the cover of his 45-rpm record ‘Rocket Man’.
During some free time we took ourselves off to the Ryman Auditorium and, following a suggestion from a fellow traveller, we signed up for a backstage tour. We were lucky to get last minute tickets and it was worth it. The Ryman’s roots were in gospel music dating back 130 years, but the venue became the home of the Grand Old Opry and country music from 1943-1974. It is also considered to be the birthplace of bluegrass music dating back to 1945.
Its performance history was not always continuous, however. For 20 years the site lay neglected. Threats of demolition followed but with local groups rallying around to save the performance venue it was refurbished. Performers returned. In more recent years these have included Ringo Starr celebrating his 73rd birthday, Emmylou Harris, and Harry Styles. Coldplay is quoted as saying it is ‘The greatest theatre in the world’.
Our backstage tour took us around several of the dressing rooms including that of Johnny Cash and Minnie Pearl, but photography was not permitted. Front of stage included some rather restricted viewing, but also some ideal seats directly in front of the stage. Cushions are recommended. The seats comprise the old wooden pews.
But today, the chance to see a show at the Grand Old Opry House is the pinnacle of a visit to Nashville. This is the home of live country music playing. The 4,440-seater site was close to our hotel, opened in 1974 but didn’t originate here. The Grand Ole Opry was born in 1925 and transmitted via WSM Radio to the nation. In 1943 live broadcasting moved to the Ryman Auditorium and 31 years later to its current Opry House. Performances are recorded up to five times a week and transmitted live via WSM Radio.
A view if you are lucky to get centre-stage seats
It was a full house when we attended, but although most enjoyable and great to have experienced an evening listening to live country music our seats, as many others, had restricted viewing (not our choice).
Those playing live included the group Exile, John Conley, T Graham Brown, Pam Willis, Lorrie Morgan, Don Schlitz and Josh Turner. Each frontman (or woman) has the chance to experience part of the Ryman Auditorium’s history, for a large circle of the old floor has been incorporated into the stage of country music’s current performance home.
It is difficult to convey the experience in words of a performance at the Grand Old Opry House but rather better if one listens to some of those seasoned country music stars on-line. Don Schlitz for example is best known for his song ‘The Gambler’ and for writing ‘When you say nothing at all’. Josh Turner’s songs include ‘Long Black Train’, and Exile members have written numerous songs for others.
This was not to be the last of our live music experience in the Southern States, but gave us an in-depth look at country music and its effect not only on Nashville, but the rest of the world. It certainly lives up to its name of ‘The Music City’.
Copyright: Words and photographs, Sue Barnard 2024
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