We made our way east of Stornoway to see one of the most important archaeological sites on the Isle of Lewis. This is St Columba’s Church UI (Eaglais na h-Aoidhe in Gaelic) which is believed to be the main church in the medieval period.
Archaeological finds showed that the area around the church had been settled by farming people in the Neolithic period up to 6000 years ago. Evidence of later occupation close to the church was found in 1937 when the remains of a small late Iron Age or early medieval stone building with a hearth on an earth floor and traces of iron objects were uncovered.
Under the Norse kings and later, until the 14th century as part of Scotland, Lewis was held by the Nicolsons who had strongholds at Flesherin and Stornoway. They may be responsible for the building of an early church on the site, a fragment of which is retained, embedded in the north wall of the building.
The Macleod dynasty, reputedly descended from Leod, a Norseman, obtained control of Lewes through marriage to a daughter of Torquil Nicolson, the last of the Nicolson chiefs. Torquil MacLeod was a son of this marriage. After the Treaty of Perth, when the islands became Scottish, they were first given by the King to the Earl of Ross and then to John, Lord of the Isles. Torquil MacLeod was confirmed as a vassal of the Lord of the Isles and probably died around 1380. The nave and chancel of the present church may have been built at the start of this period.
During the 14th century most of the Hebrides was brought together under a single Lordship. John of Islay was Lord of the Isles from 1354. The Lordship became virtually independent of the control of the Scottish Crown with Lewis continuing to the held by the MacLeods of Lewis (Siol Torcuil), the descendants of Torquil MacLeod.
This was a golden age of medieval society and Gaelic culture in the Western Isles. Justice was administered through the Council of the Isles and although warfare was a way of life, within the Lordship itself, peace was generally maintained.
The MacLeods of Lewis retained control of Lewis for 250 years or more with no fewer the 19 of their chiefs said to be buried at the church. There are two carved grave slabs commemorating Roderick MacLeod VII (died 1498) and his daughter, Margaret MacKinnon (died 1503).
We then returned to Lews Castle to have a look inside at the rooms and museum. When we were there the day before, it was late and the museum was closing for the night.
Lews Castle was completed in 1854 following Sir James Matheson’s purchase of the Isle of Lewis was taken over by Lord Leverhulme, of Lever Brothers/Unilever fame, when he bought the Isle of Lewis in 1918. In 1923, he gifted the Castle and grounds to the people of Stornoway. During the war, it was used as a naval hospital and latterly was the first home of the Lews Castle College until 1988. After many years of disrepair, the castle was renovated and now houses the museum, cafe and accommodation.
The Museum – Museum nan Eilean – is located in a purpose-built extension to Lews Castle and opened in 2016. The galleries look at the stories of the islands and islanders. Significant loans from the National Museums Scotland and the British Museum include the world-famous Lewis Chessmen.
The eleven medieval chess pieces were part of a large hoard buried on the Isle of Lewis. The hoard contained 93 gaming pieces including at least four chess sets as well as other games.
It is thought that the chess pieces were made in the late 12th century or early 13th century in Norway. Chess is a very old game originating in the Islamic world and by the medieval period its popularity had spread across Europe. It was believed that it became an important part of medieval society, a way of practicing and demonstrating skill and strategy in a war-like setting. Boards for playing the games have been found by archaeologists at medieval sites in Scotland including monasteries like Whithorn (in Dumfries and Galloway). At Lewis, the hoard also contained pieces for playing the game of tables, a game similar to backgammon.
The style of the carving links the chess pieces to Norway. There is a similar chess piece in Trondheim. The Lewis chess pieces are mostly made from walrus ivory but some are made from sperm whale teeth.
After another enjoyable day we returned to the Royal Hotel in anticipation of our moving on to the Isle of Harris the next day.
Words and photos: Copyright John Cruse 2024