And so our trip was almost at an end. Having left the delights and hospitality of Robinson Crusoe Island we had a 400-mile sailing to Valparaiso in Chile, taking around a day and a half.
We had visited this area of Chile 22 years ago, so took the opportunity to take things a little easier, but not too much. Valparaiso and the nearby Santiago (where we were staying) are not the safest of places to visit and even our local guides were wary where they took us.
Valparaiso, our docking point, is one of Chile’s most important and busy Pacific Ocean seaports. It has a long history, and away from the bustling coastline with its huge stacks of containers and transporting lorries, features an historic quarter which was granted UNESCO status in 2003. It also has a labyrinth of cobbled alleys and colourful buildings. But with time at a premium this was not where we were heading.
Instead, it was over to Santiago, an equally busy area and the country’s capital some 70 miles away. This town was founded in the 1500s by Spanish conquistador Pedro de Valdivia and too features attractive architecture, winding streets, and very busy areas. An estimated 40% of Chile’s population live here.
With the help of a Spanish guide, speaking through a broken-English interpreter (not easy), we took the opportunity of a whistle-stop tour of Santiago. Making things a little more difficult was the fact that our guiding duo was wary of us even getting out of the vehicle (for safety reasons). Nonetheless, we did visit the cathedral and had a very quick walkabout, viewing the Palacio de La Moneda (the President’s palace).
On the edge of the town we visited the beautiful garden of Laguna de las Aves – a relaxing escape from the busyness of the centre, which we were not used to after three weeks of little-populated islands.
A trip we did manage on our own via the use of taxis, was to a most delightful craft area, the Centro Artesanal Los Dominicos.
This land had been donated to the Order of the Dominican Fathers of Recoleta in the 1800s by an Irish citizen living in Chile. Although his name wasn’t stated I suspect it to be Anthony Fahy, a Dominican priest, chaplain and keen supporter for 27 years of Irish immigrants who struggled with the Spanish language.
Since 1983 part of this land has been set aside for the purpose of encouraging artisans to make their creations in view of the public and to subsequently sell them. It was a delight to actually see them at work and admire their skills, and was a far cry from viewing the usual imports. There were more than 100 workshops and small eating places.
And so to some overall thoughts of our trip across the South Pacific.
This had been an incredible opportunity, giving us the chance to visit so many islands – both inhabited and uninhabited. We experienced and were able to compare so many cultures – the French Polynesians with their genuine warm welcomes, floral garlands, food and hospitality; the rather British approach on Pitcairn; the histories and mysteries of Easter Island; and the stories within Juan Fernández Archipelago all of which gave us such contrasts. Then there were the birders themselves and viewing their passion for these winged creatures. And never to forget the experiences of landing on islands where few people had walked before over the decades or even centuries.
This was such a rare chance and one we much appreciated. But we had to leave, in order that we could travel again. Next destination: South Korea.
Copyright: Words and Photos Sue Barnard 2022