The historic town of Veliko Tarnova was an overnight base and we had an ideal position with our hotel rooms overlooking the extensive fortress of Tsarevets. We took the opportunity in the morning to hike up the rather steep site, a perfectly-placed location for the original occupants being more than 200 metres above sea level with vast views in all directions, allowing early detection of enemy attack.
Evidence of occupation dates back to the 2nd century BC, but from the 4th century AD onwards an extensive site was gradually developed. This included 3-metre high city walls with three gates and a drawbridge. More recent studies estimate the complex had 400 dwellings, 22 churches and four monasteries within those walls. The steep site is not for those delicate underfoot. Plenty of trip hazards here, but the views and gaining an appreciation of those who built, climbed up and lived within the site was worth it.
Then it was time to head onwards towards our next evening destination, Tryavna in central Bulgaria. We were beginning to realise that dear little Sweet Pea had a bit of an aversion to hills – whether steep or not so steep. She/he/it seems to be getting a bit precious in my mind.
As we struggled up a hill she/he/it was having none of it, and ground to a halt once again. We were heading for breakdown number three (not sure whether that was the car or us). Our guide and mechanic were soon on hand. I am getting the impression that we are becoming more familiar with the back ends of these two saviours rather than their top ends.
A slight adjustment to the new brakes which were expanding in the heat and still not bedded in, and we were on the road again.
Neil obviously had our karma in mind when he made an impromptu recommendation. Is there nothing this guy doesn’t think of? I told you he was smooth talking. “How about a bit of relaxation and lunch at a yoga retreat,” he suggested. “Done,” we all replied immediately and not soon after we landed on Rowena’s doorstep… well actually houses and barns.
The retreat was run by a British lady who had decided at a young age to buy a rundown property and renovate it. In fact, she now has a few buildings and barns in which she offers accommodation for those who want to retreat from the wider world for a while… or longer. Yoga sessions are offered several times daily. Some people choose the location as a ‘work-from-home’ alternative (familiarly known as ‘digital nomads’, I rather like that term), and can be seen working away on their laptops.
Having tucked into a healthy vegetarian lunch, one resident asked us if we would like to visit a dilapidated primary school, vacated in 1997. I jumped at the chance. Where else would you get an opportunity like this?
It is a sad fact that many small villages are becoming ghost towns. As the elderly pass away their offspring and others do not necessarily want to move in, there is little employment for them, and remember the population is in decline. This area around Gabrovo has faced the same situation, but the setting up of the yoga retreat has brought with it more occupants and a regular flow of visitors – all a benefit for the village.
Then we were on our way again, to Tryavna, a pretty town with cobbled streets, many independant shops and plenty of history – those Thracians made it to this area too. The architecture is very attractive, as is the pretty Kivgireniyat bridge at the town centre.
A nice touch for locals and visitors was a plentiful photographic display in the town centre of people dressed in their traditional Bulgarian costumes and featured in their home towns with a recognisable view in the background. We are finding that the Bulgarian people are proud of their history and their traditions.
Copyright: Words and photos Sue Barnard 2022