Bulgaria: Troyan to Veliko Tarnova

And we’re off! We are getting to grips with the routine now. Fuel switch on, choke out, turn engine on and immediately (yes immediately as the smooth talking Neil stressed to us) put the choke in. Lights switch turned two clicks to the right (lights on is the law) and foot on accelerator. Rev the engine, handbrake off and we are on our way. The cloud of exhaust fumes from three Trabies is something that will stay with us… in our hair, on our clothes, but hey, it’s all part of the trip.

Ah, and don’t forget the indicator. Turn it on. And DON’T forget to turn it off – no automation here in these 1970s and 1980s East German beauties.

Today we are heading to a major and historic town of Veliko Tarnova, but before we do we shall visit the monastery nearby on the outskirts of Troyan. It is the third largest monastery in Bulgaria and its buildings are full of charm.

The setting was beautiful amidst a valley beside the river Cherni Osam. It was founded in 1600 and reconstructed from 1830. The site comprises several religious buildings and accommodation for the monks. For those who might want to get an insight into the life of monks there are bookable rooms for travellers. Surrounding the buildings is much greenery including grass, trees, firs and flowering plants – all rather idealic. The buildings are exquisite on the outside and many of the paintings within are outstanding.

We then headed for a lunch stop, but oh ho, Sweet Pea was having none of that, grinding to a halt outside a little cafe in a small village along the way. Great, an excuse for a coffee. Alas not, the cafe was closed for the full two hours we were outside… just to make moves to open as we drove off.

Once again mechanic Toncho and Neil did their stuff and got Sweet Pea on the road again. But our time was not wasted. Here we observed many A4-sized posters. These announced the passing of local people, and appeared on local public notice boards and on the outside of the individual’s home. They are also posted again on anniversaries of the departed. These public notice boards appeared not to display any other information apart from the departed.

John looks on as Toncho and Neil debate the solution

We headed on to the small town of Gostilitsa, known for its folklore events, many of which are recreated each year. This includes, on Grandma’s Day in March, women dressing as men and walking around the village until they come across a man who they will pick up (literally) and carry around in the air.

Our ice cream stop was a little more subdued – being a shop, formerly built by the Communists, but it was good to get a close-up of one of these buildings.

Our three Trabants on the left and Fudge who didn’t Budge sits graciously on the back of the trailer (right)

Then it was shake rattle ’n’ roll on to our next overnight destination along roads rather in need of resurfacing. We were on our way to Veliko Tărnovo.

Copyright: Words and photos Sue Barnard 2022