Berkeley Castle is a gem. As with other HHA (Historic Houses Association) member properties, it is privately owned and in this case the ancestral lineage dates back almost 900 years.
The castle, originally a motte and bailey wooden construction, is located in Berkeley, Gloucestershire, near the Severn estuary, 30 miles from Bath. This location provides its occupants and visitors fine views towards south Wales – little wonder a castle was built here. But it was to face many turbulent times throughout its history, especially for the family who gained, lost and regained the site on more than one occasion. Paying allegiance to kings and queens over the centuries helped and hindered its ownership.
Within its walls are contained many tales of intrigue and wonderment. It is claimed that in 1327 the deposed Edward II was a prisoner in the castle and later murdered within it. The year 1417 saw the start of a dispute between members of the family as to who owned the castle and estates. This was followed in the 1450s with James Lord Berkeley being imprisoned with his sons in the castle and forced to sign land over to other family members. As if family feuds were not enough, in 1572 in steps Queen Elizabeth I who claims the castle and some of the land, and then handed her ‘rights’ over to Robert, Earl of Leicester.
The original Norman motte and bailey castle saw an upgrade from the 1150s when a stone keep with five towers was built around the existing mound upon which the castle was sited. This has provided some intriguing features for today’s visitors. Within the keep is a garden, mainly laid to lawn, some 22 feet above ground. This is puzzling until one discovers the garden is sited on top of that original mound.
Also intriguing is the substantial gap in the keep, consequently breaking its vital security. During the Civil War (1642-1646) the castle changed ownership five times. By 1646, one George Lord Berkeley managed to regain the castle, but according to family sources (its archive is extensive) this was on the condition that he breached the keep wall to ensure the castle could never be used again as a fortress. Some sources say there was a Parliamentary bombardment in 1645, which breached the keep. Others are more specific saying it was Cromwell’s troops that were to blame. Whatever the actual reason, it makes for a good story.
The first question, certainly on my lips, was could it be rebuilt today? Our most informative guide told us this is still forbidden by law. “Parliament could take the castle back if the wall was rebuilt,” he warned.
Another interesting claim to fame is that the last court jester Dicky Pearce entertained here. He passed away in 1725 and is entombed at the Church of St Mary the Virgin, Berkeley.
The gardens too are of note and have a relaxing feel about them. Much work appears to have been carried out in the 1700s and has continued with family involvement to this day. During the 17th and 18th centuries the moat was gradually filled in, which extended the gardens, and in later years plantswoman and garden designer Gertrude Jekyll (1843-1932) worked on the planting of the terraces, which continues to influence the scene.
The whole site is beautiful and awe inspiring, and takes on a different ambience according to the light. It is certainly worth a visit and if you do so, look out for the Jacob Knyff painting of the castle. He was the brother of Leonard Knyff, mentioned in a previous posting, and son of landscape painter Wouter Knyff. Clearly a talented artistic family.
Copyright: Words and photos, Sue Barnard 2022
Thank you again Sue, Berkeley castle so interesting. And any mention of Gertrude Jekyll always excites my interest as one of her “lost gardens” just post WW1 has been found here in Marryat Road in SW19! Liz
Hi Liz, thank you for the response. That is interesting about the Gertrude Jekyll garden. I have found some older references to her work in Marryat Road and one of her clients Sir Arthur Carr, head of the Peek Frean biscuit company. However, I have not seen anything more recent. New research was published in a book last year ‘Gertrude Jekyll in Sussex’ involving the Surrey and Sussex Gardens Trusts. Jekyll’s archive is held at the University of California, Berkeley, by coincidence. The university was named after Bishop George Berkeley but it has been difficult to find a reliable connection to the family name.