Food, glorious food… and so it was in Brooklyn. We were booked on a culinary tour. We have gone on such trips in various cities in recent times as we find they provide much more than food information, such as history, culture and area orientation.
Our informative guide told us how Brooklyn has been ever-changing throughout its history, with communities continually moving in and moving on. Today, parts of Brooklyn are becoming trendy places to move to with high rise condominiums and hotels being built along the waterfront. These are just a quick subway ride from Manhattan so many visitors are choosing to stay in this less expensive area. Commuters are also moving here – Manhattan provides the work, but Brooklyn provides trendy newly built areas. Not that all housing is less expensive than Manhattan. The old ‘brownstone’ houses (they are sandstone, and brown) with their multi-storey levels, are selling at £5-12 million, which is not bad for areas that were too dangerous to be in just a few decades ago.
Our tour company had sought out many independent food producers who had their hearts at the core of their businesses. These were very different from those seen when walking along the main avenues of central Manhattan, where culinary offerings are from the fast food outlets we are all familiar with.
Our first stop was at The Meatball Shop in the Williamsburg area. You got it. We were tasting meatballs. These were beef and were served in fresh, flavourful, tomato sauce. This outlet stays open until 2am daily and, according to our guide, is the place to go after having had a skinfull.
To follow our meatball starter we crossed the road to eat falafel with tahini, which again was fresh and light. Our guide advised the area around Williamsburg, Brooklyn, had a hundred food vendors providing ‘a kaleidoscope of food’.
We then moved to the Polish community to sample a ‘king’s feast’. This comprised Kielbasa, a dried and smoked long, thin, sausage (traditionally pork). The skin was a bit tough, but the meat was tasty and was served with mashed potato and sweet fresh grated carrot. This dish was accompanied by pierogi (cheese dumplings). Dessert was jablka w ciescie (apple fritters) which was more fritter than apple, but light nonetheless.
At the next stop we were treated to a show. Not in the conventional sense. This was a pizza show, with the staff whizzing dough around until it miraculously became a 25 inch pizza base, perfectly round and thin. Traditionally, we were told, the genuine article was always served simply. A thin pizza base was covered with cheese slices and a fresh tomato mix. This was baked for three minutes in a hot coal oven before fresh basil leaves were added, which would gently wilt releasing aroma and adding to the taste. Today, Table 87 continues this tradition.
Then on to dessert. Monteleone’s Bakery was incredible, packed with highly decorated and individualised cakes. The owner, Antonio, is the ideas man when it comes to cake design and the ingredients. I asked him how he got into cake making. ‘From the age of three I loved making marzipan with my aunt, and I never really stopped,’ he said. His father insisted he ‘went to school’ which he reluctantly did, but his heart was still with the marzipan. Today, his passion for sweet treats is well recognised. While we were in the shop there was a continual stream of very happy purchasers.
But Brooklyn is not just about food and housing. Within the area is the large Prospect Park, created from the 1860s. At one end is a memorial arch, rather like the Arc de Triomphe, dedicated to the soldiers and sailors who were killed in the Civil War. It is within this park that Victorians would perambulate and residents continue to enjoy today.
For our return journey we were given the opportunity to walk across Brooklyn Bridge. Had it been the summer we would have enjoyed doing so, but this turned out to be the coldest day of the winter so far with minus recorded on the temperature charts. This, coupled with a strong wind, led to us and the other friendly tourists on this trip to give it a miss.
Copyright: Words and photos Sue Barnard 2019.
Looks like you’re really getting immersed in the genuine New York. As it’s Christmas, can we expect to see you doing a Kirsty McColl & Shane McGowan ‘Fairly Tale of New York’ impression? Have a great time, and a happy Christmas to you both.