Arriving in Cartagena was a culture shock. We thought our plane had taken a detour and landed on a Caribbean island. It could not have been more different to the Colombia we have got to know. The temperature was much higher (29 degrees C) and the humidity was an oppressive 86%. When we got off the aeroplane it was like opening an oven. But of greatest surprise was the different culture.
This side of the country has a Caribbean feel, lots of bright colours, fun, music and dancing. Above all, the facial features of the people are different to the Spanish or indigenous tribal characteristics we have become familiar with during our journey, and the skin colour is darker. When I enquired of the guide about these obvious differences, he said: “It’s the result of slavery. The community is formed largely from the descendants of slaves.”
Further reading has revealed this is an aspect often avoided or glossed over, but it is a fundamental part of the area’s history and makes Cartagena what it is today. The town was a major slave trade port. Some sources consider at least a million African slaves entered the town and were sold at its Plaza de Los Coches. The slaves were to work in the gold and silver mines, ship building, churches, convents, the docks and in domestic work. Owning slaves was considered a symbol of wealth for the rich.
One person on their side, however, was a Spanish Jesuit priest named Pedro Claver (1580-1654). He dedicated his life to helping the slaves, particularly those in the worst condition, when they arrived at port having suffered dreadful conditions during their transportation.
A third of those transported are estimated to have died in transit. Claver would board the ships and tend the sick. There are mixed messages as to the further role he played. One resident I asked said he freed many slaves and asked families to welcome them into their homes as long as they were not treated as slaves. Other sources say there is no evidence of him freeing anyone and that Claver’s role was to convert as many to Christianity as he could. Maybe we will never know, but it is said he baptised 300,000 in his lifetime.
However, his role must have been a worthy one as he became the Patron Saint of Slaves. His skeletal remains are (somewhat surprisingly) on view at the Iglesia San Pedro Claver, in Cartagena.
We also visited the Museum of the Inquisition. The Inquisition ran for 201 years in Cartagena. The stories are too grim to report, but something we can thank Pope Francis for during his visit to Cartagena in 2017 was his insistence of removing much of the museum’s items of torture. Some people might be critical of this as it is a part of the history of this site, but the museum was a destination for primary school children, many of whom were badly affected by the contents. Probably many adults too. Words and images were certainly enough to tell the stories.
On a far brighter note, the port of Cartagena continues to be important today, especially financially. At least 2,500 day trippers pour into the old city each morning from a steady stream of cruise liners, keen to barter for cheap handicrafts or splash out for top quality emeralds. Colombia claims to have the finest in the world. As they do so the town’s colourful streets will not go unnoticed. Many of the houses are beautifully painted and form a photographer’s dream.
Each year the town has a flower competition. The winning building is exempt from paying tax for one year. We assumed this was probably a council tax rather than income tax, and think it would be a nice idea for the UK too.
Interesting doorways with their many different door knockers reveal inner courtyards of running water, fountains and plantings.
A trip to Colombia would have been incomplete without seeing Cartagena. It provided a very different view of the country, its people, climate and culture.
Copyright: Words and photos Sue Barnard 2019