If our first two days are anything to go by we are in for a treat in Colombia. We hit the ground running upon our arrival. We had a 10 hour overnight flight, arriving in Bogotá at 3.50am local time, when we headed straight off for a 7 hour drive to our destination at Villa de Leyva in central Colombia.
Our first stop for breakfast introduced us to the national dish of envueltos y arepa – a cornbread with cheese filling, similar to a doughnut with slightly sweet outer and mild cheese interior.
Colombians like a hearty breakfast. Our guide ate caldo de costilla – a soup containing pieces of beef and potatoes, which is a regional speciality. However, of most surprise was the coffee. This came is a large bowl, about 5 inches across filled with milk with just a little coffee. To this one added a large piece of day old mild cheese, which melted in a stringy, fondue-like, fashion.
We then headed to the beautiful town of Tunja with its 16th century Spanish colonial architecture. We were soon to find out that many of the towns have very large central squares for festival gatherings or simply relaxation. Our arrival coincided with a bank holiday, which was not too surprising as the country has 22 bank holidays a year, that’s two to three a month. This town, like many others, had several small, but beautiful gardens.
Our first visit was to the historic Casa del Fundador in Tunja, the home of the town’s founder Gonzalo Suarez Rendon dating back to 1539. Its incredible painted ceiling has survived well as it was hidden for centuries behind a false panelling.
We then went to our destination for two nights, Villa de Leyva. This is considered to be one of Colombia’s finest colonial towns with its cobbled streets, whitewashed houses, an expansive main square and (again) beautiful small gardens. This town was made a national monument in 1954.
While already being spoilt for choice by these lovely towns, a delight that I think will always stay with us was a visit on our second day to Casa Terracotta, a short drive from Villa de Leyva. This was the lifetime work of Colombian architect and ceramist Octavio Mendoza.
This building, still the home of Mendoza, has been built out of clay and fired using ovens built over each section of the house as it progressed outwards and upwards. An incredible feat. Passageways wind in all directions to quirky but highly useable rooms. The terracotta walls and floors are accompanied by mosaic features in the bathrooms, metalwork of snakes as handrails and insects outside each of the windows, and woven rush drapes. I shall let the photos do the talking but needless to say I am now a fan of Octavio Mendoza.
Kitchen
Entrance hall
Washbasin with mosaics
Copyright: Words and photos Sue Barnard 2019
Thank you for the first of your stories! I now know I know little or nothing about Colombia so will be reading with interest. The photos are terrific. Good job as usual, carry on! D and E
It looks absolutely fascinating! I am very envious.
How good it is to hear from you. We are pleased you are enjoying the blog. We hope you have more travels planned also. Best wishes.
What an adventure! I know just about nothing when it comes to Columbia. I plan to follow your trip and wish I were there as well!
(From Deb and George…
your food tour companions in Budapest)
Thank you Deb and George. Following our chance meeting on the food tour in Budapest, I am sure you will enjoy yesterday’s blog. Yes we were eating again, but it proves such an interesting and enlightening way of learning about a country. Happy travels to you too, and maybe one day that will include Colombia.